I was reminded recently that I haven't told you a thing about my own climbing this season. Like a Christopher Nolan film, I'm going to start with now, and tell you later what got me to this moment, making these decisions about my training.
Today is all about recalibration.
I've said it before... you have to change up the routine to see results. You must constantly reevaluate your abilities and change your workouts accordingly. No questions, just do it.
Trouble is, its far too easy to ride the euphoric wave of "stronger", all the while forgetting that you've already gotten the gains from your current training, and maybe it's time to change.
I had a great season, and went back into summer training expecting to perform like past seasons... low power, high endurance, a few weeks needed to get back to bouldering shape. In the first couple of sessions, I suprised myself by doing a few problems I had deemed too difficult when I first saw them several months ago. "Must have been feeling good", I thought... "that's just not how my cycle goes." As I'm focusing on pockets and edges for an upcoming trip, and nobody uses pockets anymore, I decided to set a few pocket projects for myself. They looked pretty heinous when I was bolting them to the wall. I wasn't sure I would send them, but knew I would have a few hard moves to focus on for my 3 week pure power phase.
And now I don't. Somehow, after 2 sessions, only one move still eludes me. The other problems have been sent, repeated, and sent again. All but the first move on my other project went down fast. Maybe I didn't lose power during the season, but somehow gained it?
I believe I did, and I believe I know how, which I'll go into later this week. For now, I've decided to strip a section of wall at Rockquest, set a few good warmups and moderates, and finish it off with a couple of problems that I can't fathom a single move on. I have no idea right now where the limits of my power lie, and that's a pretty exciting feeling.
Recalibration begins tomorrow.