I hear them coming from every corner of the gym. From the mats beneath the boulder. From 30 feet up the lead wall. I hear them in the lobby before I even make it into the gym. No, not the voices in my head. Those are mostly quiet these days. What I hear are excuses. Tons of them. Never ending.
"I'm too short. I wish my arms were longer."
"I'm getting too old to climb hard."
"I climb trad, and that's harder anyway. 5.8 trad is at least as hard as 5.11 sport."
"My schedule is just too crazy to have time to get stronger.""I climb for love. Training would kill that."
Blah, blah, blah.
Lynn Hill is 5'1".
Lee Sheftel sent his first 5.14 at the young age of 59.
Sorry about your luck. 5.8 trad is only as hard as 5.8 sport. Hence the number similarity.
I work 40 hours a week, have a daughter, make music, am remodeling a house (with my girlfriend...who also demands some time), just finished tango classes, still find time to help cook dinner nearly every night and oh, would you look at that... I've made progress every season. Shut it.
You what? Training would what? WTF?
Alright... enough anger. Fact is, we can all look a little deeper and possibly find a few excuses that we're making, and those excuses might just be holding us back. I realized after my session tonight... my first session of maximum recruitment, in which I incorporated a healthy amount of campusing, that I might have been making an excuse.
"Campusing hurts me. I don't want to sacrifice my elbows to try and get stronger."
Does it? Or is it not warming up properly, failing to take any preventative measures, and most important, not really understanding HOW to campus what hurts me?
After a couple of weeks of slowly introducing campusing, tonight was full on. My elbows... not a twinge. Two months ago, campusing was basically a bunch of circus tricks to me. Now, after talking with people who regularly use campusing in a structured way, I have a better understanding of it.
Even if you are making progress, look deep. Is there something you avoid? A hold type, an angle, a specific move? Anything? When people suggest you try that thing, what do you say?
Are you making excuses?