While on my recent, first time out since October bouldering trip, I began mentally planning my final push toward Spring. Knowing that a full training cycle had been lost due to time spent on the house, I had to maximize the intensity of this training period. At the same time, I wanted to make the most of the time I could slip away to the boulders, and get that first v10 under my belt.
But.... is that even possible? Can you simultaneously be in an intense training cycle and realistically expect to perform your best? Doubtful. My first thought was "I've never really trained for a bouldering season... I'm always training DURING bouldering season. It's possible that I could boulder much harder if I timed my peak right." Soon that led to "If I'm spending time trying to perform during bouldering season, is that negatively impacting my winter route training?" Most likely.
The v9 I did on this last trip was power endurance oriented. In fact, all of my v9's, with the exception of one, have been all about power endurance. I'm essentially trading out half a week of training for performance in the same arena. Exactly a problem I've highlighted
Back to the drawing board. Easy fix. For now, I have to forego performing on the boulders in favor of keeping within the parameters of my training. If sends happen, great. If not, it's all part of the higher plan.
I'll still be making the trips to the south. The difference is that now my outdoor goals will match my training. During my hypertrophy phase, I'll focus on working out the moves on v10's and 11's. v9's that don't suit my style will get the same treatment. Possibly even 8's that exploit a specific weakness. As long as there is a series of 1-3 moves that I have trouble with, it's game. For my max recruitment phase, it'll be about making links on these same problems. Come time for AE, I'll be making attempts at longer links. I may not send a single boulder for the rest of this winter, but I'll be ready to rope up when spring arrives.
Here is how the plan looks now. There are a few tweaks to make, some specifics to work out, and routines to dial in. It begins tonight. Let's get it.