"If you don't know where you are going, you'll end up someplace else."
It's that time again. Soon we'll be 14 or so weeks out from the best temps at climbing areas all over the world, which means that if you want to be better prepared this season, the time to start planning your training is NOW.
This should be easy, right? On the internet there are 25 proven methods for gaining power, 17 for finger strength, at least a dozen MUST DO exercises for core strength. With all of the information you can find, you could very easily create a 12 Week Double Inverted Progressive Linear Periodization Training Plan, and follow it concurrently with a Flying Vee Triple Conjugate Periodization Plan. Just to make sure you're hitting all the bases, of course.
Problem is, you'll never do it. Week 1 will go great. You'll feel amazing. Week 2 you'll be too busy to do a couple of the workouts. That's ok, you'll make it up next week. Week 3 you'll miss most of the sessions because you're far too busy. Week 4 you'll have totally bailed.
There's an easier, simpler way. A way that you'll stick to.
Just do a little more, or do it a little better.
Be honest with yourself. Have you tried to train before and not been able to stick with it? Do you really have 10 hours a week to commit? No? That's fine. I don't train 10 hours a week. Maybe 6, if you count the hours I spend on my foam roller and lacrosse balls (which I do).
If you never boulder, switch one session a week to bouldering. Watch the experienced, strong boulderers and learn how to do it.
If you still get pumped at the 40 foot mark, and your gym is coincidentally 40 feet tall, then start downclimbing routes.
If your feet always cut on extended moves, spend 30 minutes each session REALLY digging into trying to keep tension through your toes.
Do you always say take when you're pumped? Make your ONLY goal to be to start going for it, and work on it EVERY session.
Hate slopers? Spend an hour each session perfecting sloper problems.
Climb extra slow and controlled? Spend 45 minutes each session practicing at climbing faster and with more momentum.
Small changes. The minimum effective dose.
Sounds too simple and you want a little more direction? We've got just what you need.