You already know the name. You've read his books. He's basically the first name in training for climbing in America: Eric Hörst. My initial foray into training led me directly to his early books, and I've learned more about the science of training and how to apply it to climbing from Eric than from anyone else.
This podversation is about a new chapter in the updated 3rd Edition of Eric's book, "Training For Climbing." If you have the 2nd Edition, you only have half the story. This thing is packed full of new, good info, and in my opinion, is Eric's best book.
I don't want to give away too much here, because, well, I want you to listen to the podcast! So go do it!
You can pick up the new book HERE: OR the Kindle Ebook version HERE:
A couple of other books from Eric you might enjoy:
And you can always find Eric at his excellent site: www.trainingforclimbing.com