How people would respond to classic climbs if they were set in a gym:
The Spectre, Bishop
“They don't even know how to set hard problems here. They just make the moves bigger and use less feet.”
The Scoop, Rocktown
“These volume problems take up way too much wall space.”
Iron Man Traverse, Bishop
"Oh, wow. A downclimbing crimp traverse that ends with a crux dyno… No, thanks"
The Shield, Little Rock City
"One move wonders are dumb.”
God Module, Horse Pens 40
“This is just lazy setting. There are no foot holds”
Slashface, Hueco Tanks
“That move isn't even hard, it's just weird.”
King Cobra, Yosemite
Grand Dragon, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
“It’s the same move over and over”
Rude Boys, Smith Rock
“You would never do that outside”
Both Sides of the Spectrum, Rocky Mountain National Park
"I don't know why setters put up such reachy problems, it's exclusive."
River Dance, Dayton Pocket
“This is way too bunchy, and I don't heel hook indoors.”
Wood Grain Grippin', Arkansas
“The holds are facing the wrong way”
Atomic Stetson, Wild Iris
“Pockets are just a good way to get hurt.”
Western Gold, Laurel Snow
“It’s just a bunch of big holds with awkward feet for the crux.”
Black Gold, Red River Gorge
"It's just a crimp ladder"
Mooiste Meisie, Rocklands
“These comp style problems are so awkward”
If we look for something to complain about, we’ll find it. We've all been guilty of this at some point while climbing in the gym. We try something, it feels awkward or harder than we think it should, and so we write it off as a "bad problem" and move on.
Rock climbing is incredibly diverse and requires a massive arsenal of skills. If we allow ourselves to only climb the things that fit into our own personal idea of what climbing ought to be or what is comfortable, we'll find ourselves pigeon-holed into a single style and frustrated every time we encounter something outside of it. If you have goals that require a specific focus, then dedicate more time towards that style, but don't let it become an excuse to avoid the things that challenge you.
For 2018, lets make less excuses and put more time into the things that challenge us. Climb everything and climb it well.