When we get geographically close to the top of a boulder, we believe that means we're close to the send. Sometimes yes. Oftentimes, no.
Read MoreBouldering Tactics 101: Overlapping Links (Video)
Rants
Episode 120: Board Meetings | The Top 5 Reasons Why The Pros Are Better Than You
For most of you reading this, the truth is that the pros are better than you. Why? Are they special in some way? Some of them don't even "train"! How the hell did they get so good?
Nate and I sit down after recording several other episodes and drinking several beers, to discuss the top 5 reasons why the pros are so good. Some reasons you can use to improve your own climbing, some that just depend on your situation.
The Biggest Red Flag of 2018
We live in an age of fast food bouldering. Gym boulders are turned over more frequently than ever before. Hop on the Moonboard and you can try 2,500 different v7’s before you have to move on to v8.
Read MoreEpisode 91: Board Meetings | Do Climbing Gym Grades Matter?
In this episode, in the midst of a gym tour, Nate and I sit down to discuss how we feel about climbing gym grades. Do they matter? Should they be taken seriously?
Read MoreRock Climbs Make Terrible Gym Climbs
in Rants
If we look for something to complain about, we’ll find it. We try something in the gym, it feels awkward or harder than we think it should, and so we write it off as a "bad problem" and move on.
Read More3 Reasons Why Soft Grades Matter
in Rants
When you do a rock climb, no matter what grade you give it, or what grade the guidebook gives it, the difficulty of said rock climb does not change. It's exactly the same amount of challenging for you no matter what number anyone attaches to it.
Read MoreYou Should Probably Just Try Harder
How often do you give 100%? REALLY give 100%? I make my living coaching climbers, and I seldom see a climber try their hardest. Myself included.
Read MoreLimitless Possibilities
If you want to be physically prepared for rock climbing, you need to concern yourself with the following components:
Read MoreEpisode 38: Board Meetings | Top 3 Training Trends We Disagree With
Let's face it, there are some really bad ideas out there. Myths that people cling to. New methods of "training" that just aren't thought through. Trends that are fun to jump into, but really aren't helping you.
Read MoreThey're Mutants, All of Them.
in Rants, Mental Training
When someone who has been climbing half as long as you is performing as well as you would like to be, do you write them off as being "a natural?" Or, do you take an honest look at yourself and admit that maybe you haven’t been putting in the work necessary to become the climber you want to be?
Read MoreFalse Peaks in Performance
in Rants
What if wanting to be a better climber is the reason you aren’t improving? What do you value in good climbing? What does being a "better" climber look like?
Read MoreEven Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray.
in Rants
Of course, there are two types of "Beta Sprayers." Those with good intentions, and those who just want to hear themselves sound smart. You know the latter. Ignore them. But the ones with good intentions might also be harming you.
Read MoreNo Kings, No Way
in Rants
Around here, we like to use the hashtag #webuildmachines. However, I'm acutely aware that you could just as often substitute with the hashtag #webuildmonsters, and I don't mean that in a positive way.
Read MoreSandbagged: Are You Kidding Yourself?
in Rants
It's the new buzzword that's been around forever: sandbagged. "This is WAY harder than the other two 13a's I've done, so it MUST be 13d! At least!" Funny, I never hear, "That 13a felt pretty hard to me, I guess I should actually work on slopers for a while."
Read MoreThe #1 Reason Why Your Climbing Training Doesn't Work
Fact is, I train hard. I train smart. Most of the people I work with do the same, and I'm not shy about telling them that if they are taking shortcuts, they are only hurting themselves. But here's where it goes wrong...
Read MoreWhy the Daniel Woods 4x4 is Not a 4x4.
in Rants
Recently "Rock and Ice" posted a video from Daniel Woods and The North Face and like everyone else, I watched. At first I just dismissed it, but the more I thought about it, the more I needed to rant a little. There are loads of pro-climber "training" videos that are, at best, silly, and at worst, irresponsible.
Read MoreThe Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Route Climbers
in Rants
Here at The Power Company, we don't often talk about the differences between climbers who choose to mostly climb on routes and those who choose boulders. I'll go ahead and call that neglectful on my part, because there are some fundamental things that are different about the two.
Read MoreYou Aren't Actually Training.
in Rants
You aren’t training. You’re working out. There’s a difference.
Read MoreThe Cross-Training Dilemma
If you're cross-training for fun - because you like it or want to excel at it - or because it simply makes you feel good, then by all means keep doing it. If, however, you do it because you believe that you'll become a better climber, keep reading.
Read MoreBeware The Exspurt
in Rants
Danger is everywhere. I’m not talking about the kind of danger that we as rock climbers put ourselves into. I’m talking about the kind of parasitic danger that searches you out. There are two main types that thrive in the chalky environment in climbing gyms: The Lurker and The Exspurt.
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