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Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 7/27/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 7/27/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?

Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?

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Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 7/20/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 7/20/22

Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?

Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?

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Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22

Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

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Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 6/22/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 6/22/22

Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery

Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance.

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Better Call Paul | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 6/15/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 6/15/22

Better Call Paul | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing

How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?

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Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 6/15/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 6/15/22

Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?

The International Rock Climbing Research Association seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented.

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Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 6/8/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 6/8/22

Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?

Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches.

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PSA | Is Your Climbing Chalk Ruining the Rock?
Podcasts, Rants, Products Kris Hampton 6/7/22 Podcasts, Rants, Products Kris Hampton 6/7/22

PSA | Is Your Climbing Chalk Ruining the Rock?

Does your chalk contain a substance that might be ruining your favorite climbs?

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Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 6/1/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 6/1/22

Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?

Paul and Kris discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson.

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Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn from Season 1?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 5/25/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 5/25/22

Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn from Season 1?

Paul and Kris discuss what they learned from Season 1 of Breaking Beta.

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Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing
Podcasts, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 3/14/22 Podcasts, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 3/14/22

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing

Not all games are created equal.

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Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 2/9/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 2/9/22

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?

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Breaking Beta | Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 2/2/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 2/2/22

Breaking Beta | Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?

Is creatine supplementation right for climbers?

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Breaking Beta | Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/26/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/26/22

Breaking Beta | Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?

Who is stronger: sport climbers or boulderers?

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Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 1/19/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 1/19/22

Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?

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Josh Muller, Jordan Jasper, and Nic Nolet | Building Community
Podcasts, Community Kris Hampton 1/13/22 Podcasts, Community Kris Hampton 1/13/22

Josh Muller, Jordan Jasper, and Nic Nolet | Building Community

Building community is better business.

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Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/12/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/12/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?

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Aman Anderson | Coaching for Culture
Podcasts, Coaching, Community, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/7/22 Podcasts, Coaching, Community, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/7/22

Aman Anderson | Coaching for Culture

Aman Anderson is opening doors to climbing with the BFL Combine.

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Breaking Beta | How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 1/5/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 1/5/22

Breaking Beta | How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?

How does 30 years of climbing affect our shoulders?

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Breaking Beta | Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 12/29/21 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 12/29/21

Breaking Beta | Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?

Is flexibility a good determinant for climbing performance?

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