Thursday, January 9, 2014

High/Low. Did it work?



Simple question, right?  Well, the simple answer is that yes, in my opinion, it worked wonderfully.  In fact, my training season is ramping back up as I write this, and I plan on continuing with the high/low approach.

But, the question you all want to know...

Being as I trained no power endurance, how did it affect my power endurance for the season?

At first thought, I'd have a hard time answering this.  My power was up considerably, and stayed higher for longer.  My general endurance and stamina was higher as well.  My power endurance felt better.  The problem, I have no send to show for it.  A couple of 13b's and a handful of 12+ onsights, but no big send.  However, I do have proof hidden in my little black bag.

Taylor on White Man's Overbite.  13c
You'll remember Taylor from a case study some time ago.  I also put Taylor on the High/Low program last season, and he has the sends to show for it.  Remember, we trained no power endurance at all... only high intensity strength and power, with low intensity endurance.  While he got out of the gate slow, he steadily picked up steam and ended up with not only a Madness Cave length 13b, "B.O.H.I.C.A.", and a powerful 13b called "No Redemption", but his first two 13c's, "Buttercup" and "White Man's Overbite", both power endurance testpieces atypical of the normal Red River pumpfests.  His power endurance was far better than previous seasons, and he looked unstoppable.  It was his best season by a wide margin, but I'd guess it'll be followed by even better.

As for me, I wasted the early part of the season on a terrible sequence.  Thanks to my friends Nate Drolet and Dru Mack, I was shown the error of my ways and quickly made progress on "Transworld Depravity" (14a), falling several times at "the move" that leads to considerably easier climbing, and a series of sequences I had pretty dialed in.

Me on Transworld.  Photo:  Greg Kerzhner


I'm excited to get back on the High/Low horse and start a new training cycle.  The first cycle of High/Low training revealed a few weak points in our setup, and we're making adjustments.  We've recently completed a new training area for The Power Company, complete with a fully stocked system wall, provided by Atomik (so review's will be coming soon of the Atomik system holds) and a bouldering wall that never changes, allowing us to have long term projects.  We'll be training smarter, more efficient, and with big goals in mind.  We've added to the crew of motivated climbers who train with us, and I'm glad to have all of you along for the ride as well.

2014, here we come.