I suppose it's high time we get this thing started.
Where it's going to go, how long it will last, and how often you'll see it, I have ZERO idea. We'll just have to be surprised together.
For now, a quick intro to what I do know - which frankly, isn't much.
And I have NO IDEA why the play buttons aren't showing yet... I'm working on it. If you click the big square (which obviously is NOT the universal symbol for Play), it will actually play.
We'll be on iTunes and maybe Stitcher soon, which I'll let you know about.
A good climbing partner can be your greatest asset. If you dispute this, it's because you've never had a great partner, and you're just going to have to trust me.
Aicacia Young believes that health begins in the gut, and she LOVES to talk about it. So much so that it almost makes me excited to do the same. Almost.
In this episode, in the midst of a gym tour, Nate and I sit down to discuss how we feel about climbing gym grades. Do they matter? Should they be taken seriously?
In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.
Peter Bonamici is a midwest bouldering legend. He'll disagree with that, but it's my podcast, so I can make that statement if I want to. Not to mention, it's true.
You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
Five days. Five episodes. One theme. Common sense isn't always common practice.
In Part 2, continued from yesterday's Episode 81, Edwin and I come up with our Top 3 List of things we've learned from climbing with better climbers.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can't think of a moment when you shouldn't use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing.
In this much requested episode, I sit down with Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch to discuss assessments. Steve had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those. We talk a little about Steve's own assessments, and an important thing that he overlooked in his own training.
Many of us coaches are loosely collecting data for these assessments, but how important is it all, really? And are the standards anywhere near where they need to be? Stay tuned after the conversation for what comes dangerously close to a rant concerning the recent trend of measurements.
There are appropriate times to say "Take". There are also instances when saying it is only slowing your progress.
With the amount of available information on training for climbing growing rapidly, it becomes increasingly harder to know what is worth keeping and what's trash.
When Beth Rodden redpointed To Bolt or Not To Be in 1998 she became the youngest woman to climb 5.14a. Fast forward 20 years and Beth's website lists her as "Mother - Pro Climber - Writer". Mother first. Climbing is growing up.
Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author, and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, CO for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded. Seriously.
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth.
Our top 10 most downloaded podcast episodes of 2017 include some of our personal favorites, and a few that surprised us!
If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber". You'd be wrong. He's a climber who happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who happens to have sight.
I had the opportunity to session with Justin at Tension Climbing, and it was fascinating to get to observe and be a part of his process, and talking through it with him was just as interesting. The tools that Justin uses to climb into the V-double digits are the same tools that we use, and the same ones that many of fail to cultivate. We've got a lot to learn.
Russ Clune has climbed in more places than you. That is, unless you're Brittany Griffith (maybe).
Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's intimidating until you talk to her, and then she's the sweetest person you've ever met.
It's a new year, and it's our 2nd birthday! It's been a wild ride, and I want to say thanks to everyone for being on it with me. We'll hit 300,000 downloads today, which sounds absolutely crazy to me for a young, niche podcast.
Routesetting is hard. You know that if you've tried to set your own problems. It's also hard on the body, so it's difficult to keep a high level of fitness while setting full time.
At a time when we're seeing a whole generation of young crushers becoming adults, the role of the parent has become more and more important. Constance Lightner is, in my mind, a perfect representative for climbing parents.
No, that isn't a typo. It would be amazing if we kept all our attributes forever, but the reality is that we lose things, we forget things, and we just stop doing some of the things that made us good to begin with.
In this episode I sit down for an important conversation with wordsmith Kelsey K. Sather. We discuss her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body", a series of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana.
Last summer I started a list titled "Non Climbing (Realistic) Dream Guests". I only got as far as one name: Dan John.
It's been a while since Nate and I sat down and did one of these, so we figured we'd kick it back off with a shorty. The interwebs are going crazy with Andrew Bisharats new miracle hangboard program, Five Minute Fingers, and we've gotten several messages asking for our opinion.
Growth Mindset has recently become a hot topic in the world of sports, and for good reason. Mindset, which can be greatly affected by the feedback you give or receive, is key to learning and performance. Trevor Ragan is one of the most well versed in the science of learning and how mindset affects it, and he's out there working with teams, coaches, teachers, and businesses to actually apply the science.
So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one move that we have trouble with. Imagine that there are dozens of those moves over more than 3,000 feet of climbing, and it takes you years to unlock them. Would you stick with it? Would you believe? And what kind of partnership is required to make that happen?
The final episode with the Gnarly folks is one I had to talk them into. They wanted to educate, and I wanted to educate you all about what they have available. So we did both.
Part 2! In this episode Dr. Shannon O'Grady and I discuss the hot button topic of protein. Why do we need it, how much we need, and what's the best way to get it. Gnarly has both Vegan and Whey protein powders, and you can get 20% off by using the code POWERUP20 at checkout at www.gognarly.com