In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, climbing coach, trainer, writer, and yoga instructor based out of Ten Sleep, Wyoming. Alli climbed up to 5.14 in her signature style of vertical/technical routes, and then decided to learn how to climb steeper, more gymnastic routes... and had to change her entire approach to training and climbing, not to mention her body type, in order to do so.
You can find out more about Alli at: www.allirainey.com
She constantly working to develop and advocate for climbing in the Ten Sleep area. You can find out how to help at www.bighornclimbers.org
Five days. Five episodes. One theme. Common sense isn't always common practice.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can't think of a moment when you shouldn't use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing.
There are appropriate times to say "Take". There are also instances when saying it is only slowing your progress.
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth.
If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber". You'd be wrong. He's a climber who happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who happens to have sight.
I had the opportunity to session with Justin at Tension Climbing, and it was fascinating to get to observe and be a part of his process, and talking through it with him was just as interesting. The tools that Justin uses to climb into the V-double digits are the same tools that we use, and the same ones that many of fail to cultivate. We've got a lot to learn.
Growth Mindset has recently become a hot topic in the world of sports, and for good reason. Mindset, which can be greatly affected by the feedback you give or receive, is key to learning and performance. Trevor Ragan is one of the most well versed in the science of learning and how mindset affects it, and he's out there working with teams, coaches, teachers, and businesses to actually apply the science.
So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one move that we have trouble with. Imagine that there are dozens of those moves over more than 3,000 feet of climbing, and it takes you years to unlock them. Would you stick with it? Would you believe? And what kind of partnership is required to make that happen?
Fresh off of his audacious free solo of Freerider, Alex Honnold sat down with Arno Ilgner and Jeff Lodas from The Warriors Way to discuss his mental preparation.
I'm not often intimidated by people, but Hazel Findlay's reputation is much larger than her 5'2" frame, so I was a bit anxious about this conversation. Mental training can be a pretty nebulous topic to begin with, so if I was going to be stumbling over my words, it could end up being a rough conversation.
In this episode I sit down with professional climber, routesetter, and youth coach, Jon Cardwell. We discuss the emotional and physical toll that it takes to have a project a long way from home. In Jon's case, that project was the famed Chris Sharma testpiece Biographie (5.15a), which happened to be over 5,000 miles from his home in Boulder, Co, and took a total of 9 years and hundreds of attempts. That's serious dedication.
In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, climbing coach, trainer, writer, and yoga instructor. Alli climbed up to 5.14 in vertical/technical routes before she decided she wanted to climb steeper routes... and then she had to change her entire approach to climbing in order to do so.
In this episode I sit down with my good friend Rannveig Aamodt, and talk about her impressive road to recovery after a terrible accident. We go deep into how that affected her mentality and her psyche to return to climbing, and to physical activity in general.