In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, climbing coach, trainer, writer, and yoga instructor based out of Ten Sleep, Wyoming. Alli climbed up to 5.14 in her signature style of vertical/technical routes, and then decided to learn how to climb steeper, more gymnastic routes... and had to change her entire approach to training and climbing, not to mention her body type, in order to do so.
You can find out more about Alli at: www.allirainey.com
She constantly working to develop and advocate for climbing in the Ten Sleep area. You can find out how to help at www.bighornclimbers.org
We all create some sort of mythology around certain routes or grades - a mythology that often says "you don't belong on this route!"
Dru Mack has a list given to him by JStar that is a surefire way to develop into a better climber.
"A good coach-athlete relationship means that coaches allow themselves to not always be right..."
- Madeleine Eppensteiner | Climbing Psychology
Five days. Five episodes. One theme. Common sense isn't always common practice.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can't think of a moment when you shouldn't use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing.
There are appropriate times to say "Take". There are also instances when saying it is only slowing your progress.
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth.
In this episode I sit down with professional climber, routesetter, and youth coach, Jon Cardwell. We discuss the emotional and physical toll that it takes to have a project a long way from home. In Jon's case, that project was the famed Chris Sharma testpiece Biographie (5.15a), which happened to be over 5,000 miles from his home in Boulder, Co, and took a total of 9 years and hundreds of attempts. That's serious dedication.
In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, climbing coach, trainer, writer, and yoga instructor. Alli climbed up to 5.14 in vertical/technical routes before she decided she wanted to climb steeper routes... and then she had to change her entire approach to climbing in order to do so.
In this episode I sit down with my good friend Rannveig Aamodt, and talk about her impressive road to recovery after a terrible accident. We go deep into how that affected her mentality and her psyche to return to climbing, and to physical activity in general.