Today we're officially releasing our new "Proven Plans," an option that lands between our simple eBooks and our completely individual customized plans. These "Proven Plans" allow you to work with us in our mobile app, and they allow us to give you customizations and drills that aren't available in our eBooks. The eBooks are extremely popular - and for good reason - but many of us need a little more personal interaction and something slightly more customized. The "Proven Plans" answer that question.
Our coach Blake Cash does most of the work with clients in the "Proven Plan" system. Here, we discuss the plans, how they came about, where their value lies, and what we've learned from them.
Learn more about our Proven Plan options HERE.
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Honorary Cohost Steve Bechtel has a new book out: "Logical Progression: Using Non Linear Periodization for Year Round Climbing Performance." If you write your own training plans, and still have a hard time sticking to your plan, this is the book for you.
Today we're officially releasing our new "Proven Plans," an option that lands between our simple eBooks and our completely individual customized plans. Coach Blake Cash and I discuss the plans, how they came about, where their value lies, and what we've learned from them.
In this Board Meeting, Nate and I discuss strategies and tactics for redpointing. Some you may know, many you may not. Most you've probably forgotten or ignored when you needed them.
LEGEND! Not much more needs to be said about this week's guest, Stevie Haston, but I'll say a few more things anyway. Simply put, Stevie Haston is a machine. A simple, hard working, sensible machine.
In this episode, I sit down with strength coach, climber, and multisport athlete Charlie Manganiello, from ClimbStrong, to find out how we can all perform in multiple sports. Even if you're only switching from sport climbing to bouldering, Charlie's philosophies are applicable.
For quite some time I've toyed with the idea of "in-between" episodes. So while on our recent workshop tour, Nate and I sat down and figured out a rough format for a new concept. And thus "The Board Meetings" were born.
It's that time again. Soon we'll be 14 or so weeks out from the best temps at climbing areas all over the world, which means that if you want to be better prepared this season, the time to start planning your training is NOW.
Breaking in a new pair, putting shoes on when you have a blister or cut on your foot, or dealing with hot spots from shoes that don’t fit perfectly can all be very uncomfortable, and can make climbing miserable.
I needed stronger fingers and I knew that if I could stick with it, hangboarding would get me where I wanted to be. This time though, I would make it impossible to fail.
It’s fair to say that most climbers would improve if they followed three rules: Try harder. Stay healthy. And when you’re not trying harder, move better.
Fact is, I train hard. I train smart. Most of the people I work with do the same, and I'm not shy about telling them that if they are taking shortcuts, they are only hurting themselves. But here's where it goes wrong...
I've gotten several questions about my schedule during my High/Low training, and to those I've answered, "I'll be posting it soon," and then never posted it. Before I divulge my top secret schedule, let's talk a little about how I created it.
If you're cross-training for fun - because you like it or want to excel at it - or because it simply makes you feel good, then by all means keep doing it. If, however, you do it because you believe that you'll become a better climber, keep reading.
Simple question, right? Well, the simple answer is that yes, in my opinion, it worked wonderfully. But, the question you all want to know: Being as I trained no power endurance, how did it affect my power endurance for the season?
The High/Low Approach to training for climbing sounds incredibly simple. The problem is that it's much more challenging than first meets the eye, particularly when you are training for something as complex and hard to measure as rock climbing.
I’ve been getting tons of questions and comments about the High/Low approach to training that I’ve been exploring and writing about. I figured that it might be prudent to let people know whether or not this style of training is for you.
I've completely scrapped the old model of periodization training that I've followed for the last several years in favor of something new, known as High/Low Training.
You've done the moves, or can at least come close to the hardest ones, and have made some of the obvious, easier links. You've made the tough decision to commit. Now, to help you break this thing down to an inevitable send.
You've picked your project, and now find yourself unsure of what on earth to do next. If you exercise a little patience, along with a few tricks and the right tactics, projecting something hard can be a rewarding process.
For those that have never undertaken a project, it can be intimidating just to decide on the right route. It's easy to get in over your head, and even easier to not shoot high enough. There are a couple of questions you can ask yourself to help make this decision.
One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free. While I echo this optimistic sentiment, I know that it just isn't always possible, particularly when you're reaching into the upper limits of your abilities.
Arthur Cammers writes: I'm a month away from a climbing trip at which I want to perform well. What is the optimal program for overall climbing fitness?
More important than your coffee in the morning - ok, maybe not quite that important - is how you warm up. And if you do it wrong, it can result in absolute disaster.
My friend Nate Drolet, asked his belayer if she wanted half of his banana. Of course she did - who wouldn't? Rather than peel it and break it off with his chalky, dirty fingers, or dig in his pack for a knife, Nate snapped the banana in half. Clean break, right through the middle. Like a ninja.
You can almost always find a reason to continue training the short-sighted way: if you get attached to your method of training, the method that has worked for years and gotten you to where you are (and where you've been for 5 seasons), then you're probably missing out on some great advice.
There is NO single workout that any group of people can follow to get the optimum results for each of them. If your goal is to get stronger, then your workouts MUST reflect your own individual needs. Not mine. Not your partner's.
I made brief mention that I most often get the question "How do I get better faster?" from beginners. Then I answered the question for pretty much every one but beginners. Well, newbs, rejoice! You get a whole post. A short one, but your very own set of training wheels.
So how do you get better faster? There's a simple answer. You don't. That is, not unless you make some drastic changes and stop doing what you're doing, which essentially boils down to caring about climbing BETTER.
Professional setter Chris Danielson is the absolute go-to guy for any big comp or gym consulting project. In my research about Chris, I found several instances of other professional setters naming him as their hero and inspiration. In short, the guy is talented.