For our first bonus episode, we sit down for a much needed podversation to remind us that climbing and training should be fun. Stoke is high with Dru Mack, and even though he comes about it naturally, we dig into how he brings that good energy, how he chooses partners that aren't energy suckers, and what being a good partner means.
We're dropping weekly to the end of 2016 starting now!
We all create some sort of mythology around certain routes or grades - a mythology that often says "you don't belong on this route!"
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.
If you're a coach, this is a must listen to episode. In fact, if you're a climber who wants to learn to climb better, it's a must listen.
With all the information out there on training, rehabbing, and performance, it’s tough to know where to start when you’re injured. Dr. Jared Vagy developed a system that makes that process much simpler, and lays out a much clearer path to healing.
Joslynn Corredor is the definition of strength and courage.
Fame and authenticity don’t always go hand in hand. We’d love to believe that in climbing they always do, but that just isn’t the case.
Dru Mack has a list given to him by JStar that is a surefire way to develop into a better climber.
Today's episode is a question and answer session from our Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, recorded live in Columbia, MD.
We're flipping the script for our 100th episode. Nate takes over the host mic, and I do my best to let him lead the conversation.
I've heard Tonde Katiyo described as a ninja, a samurai, Buddha and Yoda, among other ethereal, higher level beings. Though Tonde is definitely a human, those descriptions aren't necessarily wrong.
"A good coach-athlete relationship means that coaches allow themselves to not always be right..."
- Madeleine Eppensteiner | Climbing Psychology
These are three of the most dynamic women I've ever had the pleasure of having a conversation with. They've put their souls into their work.
If you aren't aware of Jorg Verhoeven, it's likely that you don't pay all that much attention to climbing.
Ryan Gagnon is rare blend of data driven research and infectious enthusiasm, particularly when discussing his programs built to introduce and engage minority youth in climbing.
Long before John Sherman was a crusader for the plight of the California Condor, he was a bouldering pioneer, brilliant writer, and creator of the bouldering V-scale. In this episode we sit down in Hueco Tanks to discuss his accomplishments as well as to argue about his most infamous creation.
A good climbing partner can be your greatest asset. If you dispute this, it's because you've never had a great partner, and you're just going to have to trust me.
In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.
Peter Bonamici is a midwest bouldering legend. He'll disagree with that, but it's my podcast, so I can make that statement if I want to. Not to mention, it's true.
You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can't think of a moment when you shouldn't use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing.
In this much requested episode, I sit down with Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch to discuss assessments. Steve had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those. We talk a little about Steve's own assessments, and an important thing that he overlooked in his own training.
Many of us coaches are loosely collecting data for these assessments, but how important is it all, really? And are the standards anywhere near where they need to be? Stay tuned after the conversation for what comes dangerously close to a rant concerning the recent trend of measurements.
When Beth Rodden redpointed To Bolt or Not To Be in 1998 she became the youngest woman to climb 5.14a. Fast forward 20 years and Beth's website lists her as "Mother - Pro Climber - Writer". Mother first. Climbing is growing up.
Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author, and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, CO for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded. Seriously.
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth.
Our Top 10 most downloaded podcast episodes of 2017 include some of our personal favorites, and a few that surprised us! Did your favorite episode make the cut?
If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber." You'd be wrong. He's a climber who just happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who just happens to have sight.
Russ Clune has climbed in more places than you. Climbing since the late 70's, and in more than 50 different countries, I wanted to know what the legendary Clune had learned from climbers of other cultures, and how he's applied that to his own climbing.
Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's intimidating until you talk to her, and then she's the sweetest person you've ever met. Then she pulls onto the rock, and straight up crushes your project.
Routesetting is hard. It's also hard on the body, so it's difficult to keep a high level of fitness while setting full-time. Jonathan Brandt has continued to improve as a climber while simultaneously running the setting crew at Climb Nashville.
At a time when we're seeing a whole new generation of young crushers becoming adults, the role of the parent has become more and more important. Constance Lightner is, in my mind, a perfect representative for climbing parents.