For our first bonus episode, we sit down for a much needed podversation to remind us that climbing and training should be fun. Stoke is high with Dru Mack, and even though he comes about it naturally, we dig into how he brings that good energy, how he chooses partners that aren't energy suckers, and what being a good partner means.
We're dropping weekly to the end of 2016 starting now!
If you aren't aware of Jorg Verhoeven, it's likely that you don't pay all that much attention to climbing.
Ryan Gagnon is rare blend of data driven research and infectious enthusiasm, particularly when discussing his programs built to introduce and engage minority youth in climbing.
Long before John Sherman was a crusader for the plight of the California Condor, he was a bouldering pioneer, brilliant writer, and creator of the bouldering V-scale. In this episode we sit down in Hueco Tanks to discuss his accomplishments as well as to argue about his most infamous creation.
A good climbing partner can be your greatest asset. If you dispute this, it's because you've never had a great partner, and you're just going to have to trust me.
In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.
Peter Bonamici is a midwest bouldering legend. He'll disagree with that, but it's my podcast, so I can make that statement if I want to. Not to mention, it's true.
You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can't think of a moment when you shouldn't use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing.
In this much requested episode, I sit down with Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch to discuss assessments. Steve had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those. We talk a little about Steve's own assessments, and an important thing that he overlooked in his own training.
Many of us coaches are loosely collecting data for these assessments, but how important is it all, really? And are the standards anywhere near where they need to be? Stay tuned after the conversation for what comes dangerously close to a rant concerning the recent trend of measurements.
When Beth Rodden redpointed To Bolt or Not To Be in 1998 she became the youngest woman to climb 5.14a. Fast forward 20 years and Beth's website lists her as "Mother - Pro Climber - Writer". Mother first. Climbing is growing up.
Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author, and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, CO for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded. Seriously.
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth.
Our Top 10 most downloaded podcast episodes of 2017 include some of our personal favorites, and a few that surprised us! Did your favorite episode make the cut?
If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber." You'd be wrong. He's a climber who just happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who just happens to have sight.
Russ Clune has climbed in more places than you. Climbing since the late 70's, and in more than 50 different countries, I wanted to know what the legendary Clune had learned from climbers of other cultures, and how he's applied that to his own climbing.
Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's intimidating until you talk to her, and then she's the sweetest person you've ever met. Then she pulls onto the rock, and straight up crushes your project.
Routesetting is hard. It's also hard on the body, so it's difficult to keep a high level of fitness while setting full-time. Jonathan Brandt has continued to improve as a climber while simultaneously running the setting crew at Climb Nashville.
At a time when we're seeing a whole new generation of young crushers becoming adults, the role of the parent has become more and more important. Constance Lightner is, in my mind, a perfect representative for climbing parents.
In this episode, I sit down for an important conversation with wordsmith Kelsey K. Sather. We discuss her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body," - a series of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana.
Dan John and I discuss his newest book, which asks and answers important questions we often forget to ask. After you've done your assessments, you've trained and met the standards, you've won or lost, or your season is over... Now What?
Trevor Ragan is one of the most well-versed in the science of learning and how mindset affects it, and he's out there working with teams, coaches, teachers, and businesses to actually apply the science.
So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one difficult move. Imagine that there are dozens of those moves over more than 3,000 feet of climbing, and it takes you years to unlock them. Would you stick with it? Would you believe? And what kind of partnership is required to make that happen?
In this episode, Dr. Shannon and I discuss the products that Gnarly Nutrition offers. They've got a great line of products that many of you will find useful.
In this episode Dr. Shannon O'Grady and I discuss the hot button topic of protein. Why do we need it, how much we need, and what's the best way to get it.
In this episode, we go deep into the world of Branched Chain Amino Acids (BCAA’s) with Dr. Shannon O'Grady, Ph.D., Director of Product at Gnarly Nutrition. We talk about what they are, why we need them, how to use them, and more.
For this one, Steve Maisch and I discuss the different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.
Mental training can be a pretty nebulous topic… but Hazel Findlay has a really great way of taking these concepts that are sometimes tough to connect with and making them seem simple.
If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has struggled with an eating disorder. As a coach, friend, and partner, I wanted to know more about the subject, how to recognize it, and what to do when confronted with it.
Emily Tilden is a no-bullshit straight-shooter with a mental tenacity that is sometimes difficult to comprehend. She also has the often rare ability to vocalize why and how, in her ultra running, she is able to push through the wall that stops me at about mile #1.
"Flash Foxy" founder Shelma Jun is an unapologetic force to be reckoned with, and she's put more thought than most of us into this feminist movement that is rocking the climbing world.