JStar is one of the best sport climbers in the world, so it took a ton of courage for him to completely overhaul a training routine that took him to 14d (9a), but he did it anyway. Like many of us, he felt somewhat stuck. We don't see that from the outside, when the media shows only the successes, but even for the best of the best, it's a reality. We talk about the how and the why, what he learned from it, and where he's going from here.
You can find Jonathan at Jstarinorbit.com, where he keeps what is likely the best blog in all of climbing. Definitely go check out his recent posts about "Pachamama," a 15a that after eight weeks of effort, he had to walk away from. He talks about his struggles in a very real, relatable way that I find refreshing.
Also not to miss is his post about sending the "Direct Dunn Westbay" (5.14) on the Diamond on Long's Peak. He went up the day after our conversation, and his write up is, in my opinion, one of the best accounts of climbing ever written. You can find that post HERE.
Yoga and meditation have been practiced for thousands of years, so there's far more to it than the core strength, flexibility, and mental focus promoted by popular culture.
"A good coach-athlete relationship means that coaches allow themselves to not always be right..."
- Madeleine Eppensteiner | Climbing Psychology
In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.
If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber." You'd be wrong. He's a climber who just happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who just happens to have sight.
Dan John and I discuss his newest book, which asks and answers important questions we often forget to ask. After you've done your assessments, you've trained and met the standards, you've won or lost, or your season is over... Now What?
Trevor Ragan is one of the most well-versed in the science of learning and how mindset affects it, and he's out there working with teams, coaches, teachers, and businesses to actually apply the science.
So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one difficult move. Imagine that there are dozens of those moves over more than 3,000 feet of climbing, and it takes you years to unlock them. Would you stick with it? Would you believe? And what kind of partnership is required to make that happen?
Mental training can be a pretty nebulous topic… but Hazel Findlay has a really great way of taking these concepts that are sometimes tough to connect with and making them seem simple.
Emily Tilden is a no-bullshit straight-shooter with a mental tenacity that is sometimes difficult to comprehend. She also has the often rare ability to vocalize why and how, in her ultra running, she is able to push through the wall that stops me at about mile #1.
In today's episode, I sit down with Kerry Scott, an unassuming, but very badass young lady from North Carolina. Kerry is a crusher. And she's not ashamed to "spray" a little.
Lantien Chu is the coach of a high school swim team that has won 21 consecutive state titles. I needed to know how she coached her team, how her team responds, and if any of those lessons could be applicable to climbing.
Pressure. No matter if it's a comp, a project, self-inflicted, or external - we all feel it. In these next three episodes I sit down with my good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp.
We all like to call climbing an art form, but very few of us take it to the high degree that Jason Kehl does. From his haircut to his hold lines, his videos to his gym designs, Jason is anything but conventional, and that's exactly why he's so compelling.
For this episode we sat down in the Red River Gorge with coach and trainer Dan Mirsky to talk about the redpoint process, but the conversation went elsewhere, and essentially boiled down to: do what you're motivated and inspired to do, even if it doesn't make sense.
Justen is an accomplished climber and coach who has worked with a veritable who's who of American climbing elite. Justen is known for his ability to get into a climber's head and coax more out of them.
JStar is one of the best sport climbers in the world, so it took a ton of courage for him to completely overhaul a training routine that took him to 14d (9a), but he did it anyway. We talk about the how and the why, what he learned from it, and where he's going from here.
Meghan Baker is a recently married 43 year old mom (to a teenager), who works 50 hours a week, is a brilliant actress in local theater groups, volunteers, and still makes time to train for climbing. You think you are tight on time? Well, to be frank, you're full of shit.
In this episode, I have a really great conversation with V11 boulderer, mom, and physical therapist Carrie Cooper. We walk through her process, how she deals with the ego, and talk about what she's learning.
In Episode 17, I sit down with mental training guru Arno Ilgner. Athletes of all levels can benefit hugely from what we discuss during this podversation... the differences between being motivated by goals and being motivated by process.
Stoke is high with Dru Mack, and even though he comes about it naturally, we dig into how he brings that good energy, how he chooses partners that aren't energy suckers, and what being a good partner means.
In this episode I have a short podversation with Carlo Traversi, boulderer and National Sport Climbing Champion. He started in Yosemite as a traddie, and plans on taking it back to there; "Folding the sport over on itself," as he calls it.
In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, climbing coach, trainer, writer, and yoga instructor. Alli climbed up to 5.14 in vertical/technical routes before she decided she wanted to climb steeper routes... and then she had to change her entire approach to climbing in order to do so.
In this episode I sit down with my good friend Rannveig Aamodt, and talk about her impressive road to recovery after a terrible accident. We go deep into how that affected her mentality and her psyche to return to climbing, and to physical activity in general.