Episode 30: If It Ain't Broke, Fix It Anyway with Jonathan Siegrist

Photo by Jorge Visser

Photo by Jorge Visser

JStar is one of the best sport climbers in the world, so it took a ton of courage for him to completely overhaul a training routine that took him to 14d (9a), but he did it anyway.  Like many of us, he felt somewhat stuck.  We don't see that from the outside, when the media shows only the successes, but even for the best of the best, it's a reality.  We talk about the how and the why, what he learned from it, and where he's going from here.  

You can find Jonathan at Jstarinorbit.com, where he keeps what is likely the best blog in all of climbing.  Definitely go check out his recent posts about "Pachamama," a 15a that after eight weeks of effort, he had to walk away from.  He talks about his struggles in a very real, relatable way that I find refreshing.  

Also not to miss is his post about sending the "Direct Dunn Westbay" (5.14) on the Diamond on Long's Peak.  He went up the day after our conversation, and his write up is, in my opinion, one of the best accounts of climbing ever written.  You can find that post HERE


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