By: Nathan Drolet
I recently heard someone describe understanding as the intersection of knowledge and action.
Know-it-alls: They can expound on the pros and cons of every hangboard protocol that has ever been written, and a few of their own which, in their opinion, cover some of the major oversights in the original methods. Their explanation of the flaws in your workout’s time-under-tension sounds as if it could be straight from a Mel Siff or Tudor Bompa book(likely is). However, it’s these people that most often have the biggest issues making good training decisions. They know everything they need and then some, and it’s to their own detriment.
Call it ‘Paralysis by Analysis’, ‘Paradox of Choice’, ‘Not seeing the forest for the trees’ or whatever you want, but when it comes down to it, a lot of us feel like we know the right answers, but aren’t sure which of the seamlessly endless stream of right answers we should be using.
If you regularly read about training for climbing, you probably already know more than enough to reach your current goals. Now, I believe few things are more important than constant learning, but what is the point in gaining knowledge that you never put to use?
I find it interesting that a lot of great climbers are written off as ‘naturals’ or ‘gifted’ because they have limited knowledge on training or because their methods go against accepted protocol.
While you stand back and scoff at the atrocious number of pull ups and pushups that they do, ”Have they even heard of 5 x 5?”, they are busy putting in the work. Consistency is king, and this is their kingdom. The breadth of their training knowledge might not be very wide, but the depth of their understanding is unmatched.
Stay hungry for knowledge. Never stop learning. But as you do this, constantly strive to turn that knowledge into understanding.
Start something simple, finish it, keep record, reflect, and repeat.