I recently heard someone describe understanding as "the intersection of knowledge and action."
There are the "Know-it-alls:" They can expound on the pros and cons of every hangboard methodology that has ever been written, and a few of their own which, in their opinion, cover some of the major oversights of the original methods. Their explanation of the flaws in your workout’s "time-under-tension" sounds as if it could be straight from a Mel Siff or Tudor Bompa book (and likely is). However, it’s these people that most often have the biggest issues actually making good training decisions. They know everything they need, and then some, and it’s to their own detriment.
Call it "Paralysis by Analysis," "Paradox of Choice," "Not seeing the forest for the trees," or whatever you want, but when it comes down to it, a lot of us feel like we know the right answers, but aren’t sure which out of the seamlessly endless stream of "right answers" we should be using.
If you regularly read about training for climbing, you probably already know more than enough to reach your current goals. Now, while I believe few things are more important than constant learning, what is the point in gaining knowledge that you never put to use?
I find it interesting that a lot of great climbers are written off as "naturals" or "gifted" because they have limited knowledge on training or because their methods go against accepted protocol.
While you stand back and scoff at the atrocious number of pull ups and pushups that they do, asking yourself "Have they ever even heard of a 5 x 5?", they are busy putting in the work. Like I've said before, consistency is king, and this is their kingdom. The breadth of their training knowledge might not be very wide, but the depth of their understanding is unmatched.
Stay hungry for knowledge. Never stop learning. But as you do this, constantly strive to turn that knowledge into understanding.
Start something simple, finish it, keep record, reflect, and repeat.
“Learn how to train, then train hard, then train smart. Most people will never have to go past step two.”
“The holds are facing the wrong way"
"This is too reachy"
"It's just the same move over and over"
If you want to be physically prepared for rock climbing, you need to concern yourself with the following components:
In this episode, we sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga-based climber and physical therapist. We talk about how to self-diagnose, when you should see a doctor, what to do about an injury, and most importantly, how to prevent them.
In this episode, Nate, Paul, Blake, and I discuss the Top 2 ways we break through plateaus. Whether it's mental or physical, unless you're a mutant, you've gotten stuck. Well, we have some advice.
Jon Glassberg recently wrote a blog for La Sportiva in which he states that, “Climbing double digits is an attainable goal for any serious climber.” We agree.
Let's face it, there are some really bad ideas out there. Myths that people cling to. New methods of "training" that just aren't thought through. Trends that are fun to jump into, but really aren't helping you.
In our very first live episode, we talk with Dave Chancellor of the famous So iLL brothers, and Yusuf Daneshyar, co owner of the Climb So iLL gym in St. Louis about how we all define success and the different paths we took to get there.
The whole team sits down for our first Board Meeting together, and discusses the Top 2 resources where we each get our information. The internets are full of bullshit information, so it's hard to know when what you're reading has any sort of integrity or validity. We break it down the way we do, with lots of laughs in between, and let you know where we look to first for the information we believe in.
It's here. The one you've been waiting for. The Moon Board Episode. And that's not all. We recorded the conversation, sent it to the man himself, Ben Moon, and then Skyped him in to get his opinions. Legend.
When it comes down to it, a lot of us feel like we know the right answers, but aren’t sure which out of the seamlessly endless stream of "right answers" we should be using.
In this Board Meeting, Nate and I discuss strategies and tactics for redpointing. Some you may know, many you may not. Most you've probably forgotten or ignored when you needed them.
Job, family, friends, hobbies, etc.. Trying to balance that with climbing, training for climbing, talking about climbing, thinking about climbing, and listening to podcasts about climbing is TOUGH WORK.
In this episode, Nate and I sit down to discuss the Top 3 Things We've Changed Our Minds About. Fact is, if you still believe all of the same things you believed last year, then you're probably fucking up.
In this Board Meeting episode, Nate and I have a late night discussion about the Top 3 Ways We've Invested in Ourselves. That could be monetarily, emotionally, with time.... however, as long as it's an investment into bettering ourselves. A few surprising answers here!
As we've taken our "Boulder Better" workshops to gyms across the country, we've been able to watch and work with climbers of all shapes, sizes, abilities, and attitudes. We've seen lots of cool, positive things happen, but we've also seen lots of mistakes being made.
In the Red River Gorge, "Omaha Beach" is everyone's favorite route to hate on. Locals love to depict it as a mindless jug-haul with no "hard" moves. In 2010, I decided to give this jug haul a go. I hung more times than there are bolts...
For quite some time I've toyed with the idea of "in-between" episodes. So while on our recent workshop tour, Nate and I sat down and figured out a rough format for a new concept. And thus "The Board Meetings" were born.
Are you allowing yourself to be too nonchalant with your projects? Are you allowing yourself to get intimidated by your goals and using that fear to exaggerate the process required to achieve them?
When someone who has been climbing half as long as you is performing as well as you would like to be, do you write them off as being "a natural?" Or, do you take an honest look at yourself and admit that maybe you haven’t been putting in the work necessary to become the climber you want to be?
What if wanting to be a better climber is the reason you aren’t improving? What do you value in good climbing? What does being a "better" climber look like?
Breaking in a new pair, putting shoes on when you have a blister or cut on your foot, or dealing with hot spots from shoes that don’t fit perfectly can all be very uncomfortable, and can make climbing miserable.
I needed stronger fingers and I knew that if I could stick with it, hangboarding would get me where I wanted to be. This time though, I would make it impossible to fail.
It’s fair to say that most climbers would improve if they followed three rules: Try harder. Stay healthy. And when you’re not trying harder, move better.
Things have gotten busy over here. Business busy. That's right, this thing has become a business and I need good people involved who really care, and who want to help people succeed. Nate Drolet is that guy.
My friend Nate Drolet, asked his belayer if she wanted half of his banana. Of course she did - who wouldn't? Rather than peel it and break it off with his chalky, dirty fingers, or dig in his pack for a knife, Nate snapped the banana in half. Clean break, right through the middle. Like a ninja.