I recently heard someone describe understanding as "the intersection of knowledge and action."
There are the "Know-it-alls:" They can expound on the pros and cons of every hangboard methodology that has ever been written, and a few of their own which, in their opinion, cover some of the major oversights of the original methods. Their explanation of the flaws in your workout’s "time-under-tension" sounds as if it could be straight from a Mel Siff or Tudor Bompa book (and likely is). However, it’s these people that most often have the biggest issues actually making good training decisions. They know everything they need, and then some, and it’s to their own detriment.
Call it "Paralysis by Analysis," "Paradox of Choice," "Not seeing the forest for the trees," or whatever you want, but when it comes down to it, a lot of us feel like we know the right answers, but aren’t sure which out of the seamlessly endless stream of "right answers" we should be using.
If you regularly read about training for climbing, you probably already know more than enough to reach your current goals. Now, while I believe few things are more important than constant learning, what is the point in gaining knowledge that you never put to use?
I find it interesting that a lot of great climbers are written off as "naturals" or "gifted" because they have limited knowledge on training or because their methods go against accepted protocol.
While you stand back and scoff at the atrocious number of pull ups and pushups that they do, asking yourself "Have they ever even heard of a 5 x 5?", they are busy putting in the work. Like I've said before, consistency is king, and this is their kingdom. The breadth of their training knowledge might not be very wide, but the depth of their understanding is unmatched.
Stay hungry for knowledge. Never stop learning. But as you do this, constantly strive to turn that knowledge into understanding.
Start something simple, finish it, keep record, reflect, and repeat.
This will be a review of 2018 in regards to goals, training, climbing, numbers, injuries, and lessons.
We live in an age of fast food bouldering. Gym boulders are turned over more frequently than ever before. Hop on the Moonboard and you can try 2,500 different v7’s before you have to move on to v8.
It’s been a wonderful pump-free five years, but that time has come to an end.
As I switch back to sport climbing as my primary focus, I feel like this is a good time to reflect on and share some lessons I’ve learned over the past few years and talk on some things I’m having to relearn.
What good are core exercises if they don’t help your climbing? While normal exercises can go a long way towards making your core stronger, I’m a fan of using climbing drills to incorporate that strength core into your regular climbing.
When you are trying to do hard moves while climbing, the goal is to compensate, get into the most efficient body positions, and find the path of least resistance. With core exercises, we are looking for the opposite. You are trying to find the most challenging positions that you can execute while maintaining perfect form.
If you want to get stronger, you need to try hard. This is as true with your training as it is with your climbing. It doesn’t matter how good an exercise or a program is, if you aren’t putting in the correct effort then you won’t get the results you’re looking for.
Finding useful core exercises for climbing can be tough. Some are so advanced that it’s hard to tell if you are getting anything out of them or if it’s just a circus trick with little carryover to performance.
Even though we can see that there are tangible benefits, few of us ever put in the time to improve our mental game.
My perception of what I was capable of, what could be possible, how hard I can push myself, the belief, the confidence, was all very much changed through a mere three weeks of training.
We're flipping the script for our 100th episode. Nate takes over the host mic, and I do my best to let him lead the conversation.
“Learn how to train, then train hard, then train smart. Most people will never have to go past step two.”
If we look for something to complain about, we’ll find it. We try something in the gym, it feels awkward or harder than we think it should, and so we write it off as a "bad problem" and move on.
It's a new year, and it's our 2nd birthday! In this episode, Nate and I talk goal setting. Not resolutions; goals. Different animals altogether.
No, that isn't a typo. It would be amazing if we kept all our attributes forever, but the reality is that we lose things, we forget things, and we just stop doing some of the things that made us good to begin with.
It's been a while since Nate and I sat down and did one of these, so we figured we'd kick it back off with a shorty. The interwebs are going crazy with Andrew Bisharats new miracle hangboard program, Five Minute Fingers, and we've gotten several messages asking for our opinion.
If you want to be physically prepared for rock climbing, you need to concern yourself with the following components:
In this episode, we sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga-based climber and physical therapist. We talk about how to self-diagnose, when you should see a doctor, what to do about an injury, and most importantly, how to prevent them.
In this episode, Nate, Paul, Blake, and I discuss the Top 2 ways we break through plateaus. Whether it's mental or physical, unless you're a mutant, you've gotten stuck. Well, we have some advice.
Jon Glassberg recently wrote a blog for La Sportiva in which he states that, “Climbing double digits is an attainable goal for any serious climber.” We agree.
Let's face it, there are some really bad ideas out there. Myths that people cling to. New methods of "training" that just aren't thought through. Trends that are fun to jump into, but really aren't helping you.
In our very first live episode, we talk with Dave Chancellor of the famous So iLL brothers, and Yusuf Daneshyar, co owner of the Climb So iLL gym in St. Louis about how we all define success and the different paths we took to get there.
The whole team sits down for our first Board Meeting together, and discusses the Top 2 resources where we each get our information. The internets are full of bullshit information, so it's hard to know when what you're reading has any sort of integrity or validity. We break it down the way we do, with lots of laughs in between, and let you know where we look to first for the information we believe in.
It's here. The one you've been waiting for. The Moon Board Episode. And that's not all. We recorded the conversation, sent it to the man himself, Ben Moon, and then Skyped him in to get his opinions. Legend.
When it comes down to it, a lot of us feel like we know the right answers, but aren’t sure which out of the seamlessly endless stream of "right answers" we should be using.
In this Board Meeting, Nate and I discuss strategies and tactics for redpointing. Some you may know, many you may not. Most you've probably forgotten or ignored when you needed them.
Job, family, friends, hobbies, etc.. Trying to balance that with climbing, training for climbing, talking about climbing, thinking about climbing, and listening to podcasts about climbing is TOUGH WORK.
In this episode, Nate and I sit down to discuss the Top 3 Things We've Changed Our Minds About. Fact is, if you still believe all of the same things you believed last year, then you're probably fucking up.
In this Board Meeting episode, Nate and I have a late night discussion about the Top 3 Ways We've Invested in Ourselves. That could be monetarily, emotionally, with time.... however, as long as it's an investment into bettering ourselves. A few surprising answers here!
As we've taken our "Boulder Better" workshops to gyms across the country, we've been able to watch and work with climbers of all shapes, sizes, abilities, and attitudes. We've seen lots of cool, positive things happen, but we've also seen lots of mistakes being made.
In the Red River Gorge, "Omaha Beach" is everyone's favorite route to hate on. Locals love to depict it as a mindless jug-haul with no "hard" moves. In 2010, I decided to give this jug haul a go. I hung more times than there are bolts...