Bouldering Tactics 101: The Power Spot (Video)
Any time we encounter a difficult move, we spend a huge amount of time learning the starting position and the initial trajectory, but how often do we take the time to learn the end position and the correct finishing trajectory?
Not to mention, throwing yourself at a move that feels impossible can be counter productive if you have to try so hard that you aren't able to notice the subtleties. It’s just not the best way for us to learn.
Getting assistance in the form of a power spot can not only let you feel HOW to do the move, but teach your body the correct path through space, help you realize which muscles to fire and when, and help build confidence for that move and subsequent moves. Plus, it saves valuable energy that could potentially be used later in the session to send.
It might be embarrassing to ask someone to push you through a move, but it won't be embarrassing when you're the one who tops out.
100 Boulders and Mango Tango: Kerry Scott gets after it. Consistently.
Improvement comes from challenges, not from the number they are given. If you focus on being challenged and trying hard, then the numbers will follow.
When we get geographically close to the top of a boulder, we believe that means we're close to the send. Sometimes, yes. But oftentimes, no.
Dark Horse. Climber's Climber. Undercover Crusher. Whatever you want to call it, today's guest Brian Antheunisse may be it.
Jon Glassberg recently wrote in a blog that, “Climbing double digits is an attainable goal for any serious climber.” We agree.
Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.
Climber performance metrics only tell a small part of a much more complex human story.
Useful data for coaches and climbers.
When you think of a 5.14 climber, a trial lawyer taking work calls on his drive to Idaho is not the first person that comes to mind.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Climbing can be scary.