Episode 88: Climb Injury Free Pt. 1 | Mobility with Dr. Jared Vagy

PodcastsInjury and PreventionMovement Practice
Written By Kris Hampton
Dr Vagy Cover Image.png

You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built. 

In Part 1, we're tackling the idea of mobility, and how it relates to both avoiding injury and rehabbing from it. Dr. Vagy walks me through many of the mobility drills that he recommends for climbers, and makes it easy for anyone to follow along, which I suggest you do, no matter how silly you think you look. It doesn't look as silly as coming to the gym with an injured finger and a tweaked knee and sitting there spectating, or worse, hurting yourself further. 

MORE ON INJURY PREVENTION
Why Strength Training Isn't Making You Climb Harder | Part 2
Why Strength Training Isn't Making You Climb Harder | Part 2

Use strength to leverage every other aspect of your climbing, not replace them.

Part Three of The Once and Future Sport Climber: Winter Training and Hueco
Part Three of The Once and Future Sport Climber: Winter Training and Hueco

Part three from Nate: training in December and January, how I spent my time in Hueco to keep preparing myself for sport climbing, and what I’m doing from here.

Leather and Lace: A Comeback Story
Leather and Lace: A Comeback Story

If you've ever been to "24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell", then you've no doubt heard of Dick Dower and Natalie Neal Dower.

Of Shoulders, Elbows, and More To Come...
Of Shoulders, Elbows, and More To Come...

I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.

Why Climbing Is Bad For Your Health
Why Climbing Is Bad For Your Health

One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.

Campusing = Healthy Elbows?
Campusing = Healthy Elbows?

Campusing is precisely how my first round of bad elbow problems began.

Pushing Through The Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Shoulders.
Pushing Through The Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Shoulders.

Shoulders are a tricky joint.  A big muscular shoulder means absolutely nothing when it comes to injuries.

Pushing Through the Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Fingers and Elbows.
Pushing Through the Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Fingers and Elbows.

All of us are going to get hurt at some point.

Featured
Board Meetings | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West
Board Meetings | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West

Our very own coach Jess West provides valuable insight as to how setters can smartly and safely train for their goals.

Caitlin Homes | Body Composition for Climbers
Caitlin Homes | Body Composition for Climbers

Certified Nutrition Specialist Caitlin Holmes discusses body composition, which is often conflated with weight loss and can thus be a very polarizing topic.

Eric Hörst | Growing Older, Stronger, Better
Eric Hörst | Growing Older, Stronger, Better

Eric Hörst chats about how some big life shifts – retirement, the success of his brand PhysiVantage, and becoming an empty nester – have impacted his climbing and training.

Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?

Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?

Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?

Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
Previous

Episode 89: Become a Better Climber with Peter Bonamici
Next

Episodes 83-87: Board Meetings | Common Sense vs. Common Practice