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Are Your Intentions Good?
The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 5/12/25 The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 5/12/25

Are Your Intentions Good?

You can do better.

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Your Goals Are Decisions
The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 4/8/25 The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 4/8/25

Your Goals Are Decisions

Should you explore a new style of climbing, to become more adaptable, or exploit the style you are already well-versed in?

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Climbing Common Sense Isn’t Always Common Practice
The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 2/14/25 The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 2/14/25

Climbing Common Sense Isn’t Always Common Practice

Returning to the common sense of how and why we do this thing should be common practice – but it rarely is.

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The Hidden Value of Sending More
The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 1/6/25 The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 1/6/25

The Hidden Value of Sending More

Why failure might not be our best teaching tool.

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Somehow, I Didn’t Fail
The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 11/4/24 The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 11/4/24

Somehow, I Didn’t Fail

Somehow, I didn’t fail. On my 50th birthday, I managed to scrape my way up my one-hundredth 5.13.

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CONFLICTED | Indoor Beta Videos
Podcasts, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 10/7/24 Podcasts, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 10/7/24

CONFLICTED | Indoor Beta Videos

There's a time and place for using beta videos, but in the gym?

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I’m Likely to Fail
The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 9/30/24 The Current, Articles Kris Hampton 9/30/24

I’m Likely to Fail

I don’t set goals so that I can achieve them. I set goals so that I can chase them.

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Your Greatest Climbing Strength Is Holding You Back
The Current, Movement Practice, Articles Kris Hampton 9/4/24 The Current, Movement Practice, Articles Kris Hampton 9/4/24

Your Greatest Climbing Strength Is Holding You Back

If we’re always compensating for some weakness or skill we don’t yet have, how will we ever improve?

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Patron Question: Climbing Improvement and Training vs. Performance in the Same Environment
Podcasts, Physical Training, Tactics Kris Hampton 7/26/24 Podcasts, Physical Training, Tactics Kris Hampton 7/26/24

Patron Question: Climbing Improvement and Training vs. Performance in the Same Environment

How should we separate training and performance when they both occur in the same environment?

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Taped Tips | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance
Articles, Podcasts, Physical Training Kris Hampton 10/26/23 Articles, Podcasts, Physical Training Kris Hampton 10/26/23

Taped Tips | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance

Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.

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How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us
Data and Assessments, Articles, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/25/22 Data and Assessments, Articles, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/25/22

How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us

Climber performance metrics only tell a small part of a much more complex human story.

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Taped Tips | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
Podcasts, Coaching Kris Hampton 10/21/22 Podcasts, Coaching Kris Hampton 10/21/22

Taped Tips | Difficulties Should Be Desirable

The difficulties of a task should be such that they help the learner translate the skill to performance.

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Taped Tips | When Beta Isn't Better
Podcasts, Coaching, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/19/22 Podcasts, Coaching, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/19/22

Taped Tips | When Beta Isn't Better

You’re watching your client, student, partner, or bestie struggle. And you want to help. But how? It entirely depends on the goal.

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Taped Tips | Are You Always Performing?
Podcasts, Coaching Kris Hampton 10/17/22 Podcasts, Coaching Kris Hampton 10/17/22

Taped Tips | Are You Always Performing?

Practice is adaptation. Performance is owning.

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Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
Podcasts, Data and Assessments, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/6/22 Podcasts, Data and Assessments, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/6/22

Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics

How to use data to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst the Power Company coaches for years, until Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.

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Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap
Podcasts, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 9/22/22 Podcasts, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 9/22/22

Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap

We talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap.

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Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Podcasts, Board Meeting, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 9/5/22 Podcasts, Board Meeting, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 9/5/22

Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked

Objective metrics might not be the best way.

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Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 8/24/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 8/24/22

Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?

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Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/3/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/3/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?

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Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22

Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

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