Heading into this summer of training, I've made some drastic changes for the simpler concerning the hangboard.

My thoughts on training had gotten maybe too complicated.  Too many exercises, not enough focus on the basics.

Newbs, rejoice!  You get a whole post.  A short one, but your very own set of training wheels.

So how do you get better faster?  There's a simple answer.  You don't.

“At that point, I realized that I was climbing because I wanted to.”

Professional setter Chris Danielson is the absolute go-to guy for any big comp or gym consulting project.

Should I be investing more time and focus on the hangboard and other sport specific exercises? Ryan Palo answers.

Can you simultaneously be in an intense training cycle and realistically expect to perform your best?  Doubtful. 

I've been friends with, climbed with, and offered training advice to Yasmeen Fowler for several years.

You'll remember Taylor Frohmiller from the incomplete case studies we tried in the spring.

Adam said: ...my gym sees a very minimal effort in route setting. Do you have any suggestions as far as conquering these stagnant plastic doldrums?

After much deliberation over a list of about 25, I've decided on the 5 ways I see experienced climbers derail their progression.

How do you climb once you've already taken on a massive pump? That's where the CAP comes in.  Climbing After Pumped. 

When I began training, I was clueless. What I did know is that I wanted to get better.

I hear them coming from every corner of the gym… excuses.

Anonymous said:What are you doing in terms of forearms, the weakest link for probably 99% of climbers?

Build the muscles, then ask them to work harder... that's the plan.

I rarely get frustrated about a rock climb, but on my final day on "Ghost Dance", I grew far more upset than I ever thought I would.

However, there is something about redpointing that goes much deeper.

I've been here in Lander for 9 days, and have spent some quality time with a couple of different projects.