Both are important. Which is your default? Do you value the other?

We talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap.

Does using the nutritional supplement beta-alanine improve climbing performance?

Looking for a winter bouldering destination with endless rock, hosting classic problems of every grade? Look no further than Chattanooga.

What does science say about warming up before performance?

Objective metrics might not be the best way.

Sam Prentice, a climber and District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, talks about the alarming rate at which wildfires are destroying the Giant Sequoias.

Are chalking up and shaking out helpful? Or just habits? And is just reading a research paper’s abstract enough to go on?

Prerna’s biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India.

Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?

“You’re overthinking it.” But is your overthinking actually costing you the send?

Can how well we climb actually change how difficult a move looks to us?

Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?

Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?

Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance.

How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?

The International Rock Climbing Research Association seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented.

Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches.