Taped Tips | When Beta Isn't Better
You’re watching your client, student, partner, or bestie struggle. And you want to help. But how? It entirely depends on the goal.
Taped Tips | I Said What I S.A.I.D.
We think we know exactly what climbing looks like. We’ve zeroed in on the details. And in this case, it really isn’t those details that matter.
Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
How to use data to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst the Power Company coaches for years, until Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.
Board Meetings | Systematic Tactics vs. Battle Mode
Both are important. Which is your default? Do you value the other?
Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap
We talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap.
Breaking Beta | Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?
Does using the nutritional supplement beta-alanine improve climbing performance?
What When How to Train | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer
Looking for a winter bouldering destination with endless rock, hosting classic problems of every grade? Look no further than Chattanooga.
Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
What does science say about warming up before performance?
Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Objective metrics might not be the best way.
Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician
Sam Prentice, a climber and District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, talks about the alarming rate at which wildfires are destroying the Giant Sequoias.
Breaking Beta | Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helping or Persistent Myths?
Are chalking up and shaking out helpful? Or just habits? And is just reading a research paper’s abstract enough to go on?
Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power
Prerna’s biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India.
Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?
Breaking Beta | Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?
“You’re overthinking it.” But is your overthinking actually costing you the send?
Breaking Beta | Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold and Move Size?
Can how well we climb actually change how difficult a move looks to us?
Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?
Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?
Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?
Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?
Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?