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Taped Tips | When Beta Isn't Better
Podcasts, Coaching, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/19/22 Podcasts, Coaching, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/19/22

Taped Tips | When Beta Isn't Better

You’re watching your client, student, partner, or bestie struggle. And you want to help. But how? It entirely depends on the goal.

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Taped Tips | I Said What I S.A.I.D.
Podcasts, Coaching Kris Hampton 10/18/22 Podcasts, Coaching Kris Hampton 10/18/22

Taped Tips | I Said What I S.A.I.D.

We think we know exactly what climbing looks like. We’ve zeroed in on the details. And in this case, it really isn’t those details that matter.

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Taped Tips | Are You Always Performing?
Podcasts, Coaching Kris Hampton 10/17/22 Podcasts, Coaching Kris Hampton 10/17/22

Taped Tips | Are You Always Performing?

Practice is adaptation. Performance is owning.

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Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
Podcasts, Data and Assessments, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/6/22 Podcasts, Data and Assessments, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/6/22

Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics

How to use data to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst the Power Company coaches for years, until Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.

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Board Meetings | Systematic Tactics vs. Battle Mode
Podcasts, Tactics, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 10/4/22 Podcasts, Tactics, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 10/4/22

Board Meetings | Systematic Tactics vs. Battle Mode

Both are important. Which is your default? Do you value the other?

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Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap
Podcasts, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 9/22/22 Podcasts, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 9/22/22

Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap

We talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap.

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Breaking Beta | Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Best Of, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 9/14/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Best Of, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 9/14/22

Breaking Beta | Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

Does using the nutritional supplement beta-alanine improve climbing performance?

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What When How to Train | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer
What When How To Train, Podcasts, Travel Kris Hampton 9/8/22 What When How To Train, Podcasts, Travel Kris Hampton 9/8/22

What When How to Train | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer

Looking for a winter bouldering destination with endless rock, hosting classic problems of every grade? Look no further than Chattanooga.

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Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 9/7/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 9/7/22

Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

What does science say about warming up before performance?

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Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Podcasts, Board Meeting, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 9/5/22 Podcasts, Board Meeting, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 9/5/22

Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked

Objective metrics might not be the best way.

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Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician
Podcasts, Travel Kris Hampton 9/1/22 Podcasts, Travel Kris Hampton 9/1/22

Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician

Sam Prentice, a climber and District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, talks about the alarming rate at which wildfires are destroying the Giant Sequoias.

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Breaking Beta | Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helping or Persistent Myths?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/31/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/31/22

Breaking Beta | Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helping or Persistent Myths?

Are chalking up and shaking out helpful? Or just habits? And is just reading a research paper’s abstract enough to go on?

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Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power
Podcasts, Community, Travel Kris Hampton 8/25/22 Podcasts, Community, Travel Kris Hampton 8/25/22

Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power

Prerna’s biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India.

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Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 8/24/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 8/24/22

Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?

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Breaking Beta | Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 8/17/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 8/17/22

Breaking Beta | Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

“You’re overthinking it.” But is your overthinking actually costing you the send?

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Breaking Beta | Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold and Move Size?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 8/10/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 8/10/22

Breaking Beta | Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold and Move Size?

Can how well we climb actually change how difficult a move looks to us?

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Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/3/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/3/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?

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Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 7/27/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 7/27/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?

Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?

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Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 7/20/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 7/20/22

Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?

Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?

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Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22

Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

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