Why the Daniel Woods 4x4 is Not a 4x4.
There are loads of pro-climber "training" videos out there that are at best, silly, and at worst, irresponsible.
Broken Wing: 28 Days Post Surgery (A Tale of Atrophy)
When you aren't using muscles, your body has zero interest in maintaining them.
Campusing, Part II: When and Why to Use the Smaller Rungs
Let's talk about when and why you might want to make the switch to using the smaller rungs.
Campusing, Part I: For Power - Big Rungs, Big Moves
The campus board's bad reputation arises from misuse.
Deadlifting for Climbing: Truth or Trend?
Climbers everywhere are doing it. But why? Will it make you a better climber?
Review: bäm! board from bäm! climbing
As far as I'm concerned, this is the product of the year. Innovation of the year.
Broken Wing: Post 1
I’m headed to the hospital for rotator cuff surgery, specifically to repair a full thickness labrum tear as well as a full thickness supraspinatus tear.
Review: "Winter" and "Noah" from Kilter Climbing Grips
When it comes to climbing holds, I'm currently singing the praises of Kilter Climbing Grips.
Guest Post with Aicacia Young, RDN: How To Delay Muscle Fatigue
There is actually a difference between the muscle burn that you feel during intense exercise and true muscle fatigue.
The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Sport Climbers
While in the gym, for the most part, boulderers are closer than sport climbers to training the correct way.
The Strawberry Roan
I teamed up with my good friend Leif Gasch to try and put down an unfinished Todd Skinner project called "The Strawberry Roan."
Books for Climbers: Nutrition and Strength
I wanted to give you guys and girls the heads up on these two books so that you can get your hands on them.
Review: Bumper Pads from Vision Climbing
I needed bad holds. BAD holds. And so, the Bumper Pads from Vision Climbing.
You Aren't Actually Training.
You aren’t training. You’re working out. There’s a difference.
Review: Transgression Hangboard by Eva Lopez
The Transgression and Progression Hangboards by Eva Lopez, are the first in some time to depart from the "little bit of every grip type" design.
Training Beta Podcast
Just wanted to give you guys a heads up: if you aren't already following the Training Beta podcast, the new episode, which is a conversation I had with Neely, is up! Check it out!