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Advice Has an Angle
Articles Nathan Drolet 9/8/22 Articles Nathan Drolet 9/8/22

Advice Has an Angle

Whenever there is a training article online or some tidbit of knowledge on social media, it’s important that you consider the context.

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What When How to Train | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer
What When How To Train, Podcasts, Travel Kris Hampton 9/8/22 What When How To Train, Podcasts, Travel Kris Hampton 9/8/22

What When How to Train | Chattanooga Bouldering with Juliet Hammer

Looking for a winter bouldering destination with endless rock, hosting classic problems of every grade? Look no further than Chattanooga.

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Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 9/7/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 9/7/22

Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

What does science say about warming up before performance?

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Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Podcasts, Board Meeting, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 9/5/22 Podcasts, Board Meeting, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 9/5/22

Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked

Objective metrics might not be the best way.

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Skills of Perception: Part 3
Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 9/2/22 Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 9/2/22

Skills of Perception: Part 3

At a certain stage in climbing, the hand and foot beta you use stops being the deciding factor in whether or not you are successful.

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Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician
Podcasts, Travel Kris Hampton 9/1/22 Podcasts, Travel Kris Hampton 9/1/22

Sam Prentice | The Giant Sequoia Mortician

Sam Prentice, a climber and District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, talks about the alarming rate at which wildfires are destroying the Giant Sequoias.

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Breaking Beta | Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helping or Persistent Myths?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/31/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/31/22

Breaking Beta | Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helping or Persistent Myths?

Are chalking up and shaking out helpful? Or just habits? And is just reading a research paper’s abstract enough to go on?

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Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power
Podcasts, Community, Travel Kris Hampton 8/25/22 Podcasts, Community, Travel Kris Hampton 8/25/22

Prerna Dangi | Finding Her Power

Prerna’s biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India.

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Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 8/24/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 8/24/22

Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?

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Skills of Perception: Part 2
Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 8/22/22 Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 8/22/22

Skills of Perception: Part 2

The intermediate climber’s problem with perception starts to arise when they can’t recall all of the solutions they have attempted during the problem solving process.

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Skills of Perception: Part 1
Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 8/18/22 Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 8/18/22

Skills of Perception: Part 1

If you want to get the most out of your skill work and practice, being able to remember what you tried is a great first step.

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Breaking Beta | Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 8/17/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 8/17/22

Breaking Beta | Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

“You’re overthinking it.” But is your overthinking actually costing you the send?

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Breaking Beta | Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold and Move Size?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 8/10/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 8/10/22

Breaking Beta | Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold and Move Size?

Can how well we climb actually change how difficult a move looks to us?

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Future Problems
Articles Nathan Drolet 8/9/22 Articles Nathan Drolet 8/9/22

Future Problems

Well-intentioned brainstorming about improving ourselves can quickly devolve into avoiding the challenge in front of us.

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The Worst Reason to Not Improve
Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 8/3/22 Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 8/3/22

The Worst Reason to Not Improve

What easy wins are you missing out on?

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Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/3/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 8/3/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?

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Why Did That Work So Well?
Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 7/29/22 Articles, Mental Training Nathan Drolet 7/29/22

Why Did That Work So Well?

You’ll get more value out of replicating the times that things go well than you will from dwelling on the bad days.

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Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 7/27/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 7/27/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?

Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?

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Love It or Leave It
Articles Nathan Drolet 7/24/22 Articles Nathan Drolet 7/24/22

Love It or Leave It

What if you’re spending time chasing something you don’t really want?

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Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 7/20/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 7/20/22

Breaking Beta | Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?

Can shoulder injuries be prevented through strength training? Or are they just an inevitable part of being a climber?

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