Last season at the Motherlode, while working on Transworld Depravity, I would hang out at the midway rest and watch the climbers on the GMC wall on their projects. As is often the case, the rotations would coincide such that I'd see the same climbers getting closer and closer to sending. It was a fun back and forth of energy. Occasionally I'd venture over to soak in the sunshine between burns.
It was on one such jaunt that I met Seth and Neely. Seth had been working on White Mans Shuffle, a relentless 13d, and Neely on 8-Ball, one of the best (and stiffest) 12d's that the Red has to offer. I immediately recognized that Neely was no-nonsense. She was direct, looked people in the eye, and didn't mince her words. Exactly the kind of person that everyone needs to have around. Having many friends in common, including some of our favorite people, it seemed like we'd known each other much longer than the 15 minutes of reality.
Knowing that Neely is driven and focused, I contacted her in hopes of helping out somehow. She was looking for trainers to write training programs, so we talked out the specifics, and I got to work. In the meantime, she and Seth were working overtime on TrainingBeta, with the plan of making it a one-stop shop for training. Podcasts, interviews, and training programs, as well as advice from athletes and trainers alike.
I'm happy to announce that the first training program is available on TrainingBeta, from Boulder based trainer and partner in "Team of 2", Kris Peters. I've looked over the program, a "Team of 2", and I strongly approve. For those who get pumped after only a few crux moves, and just can't sustain the energy needed to link together long cruxes, this will be your ticket.
I believe that my first addition to the site, a general local endurance program for those who are looking to move from 5.10 to 5.11 or from 5.11 to 5.12 is up next! I'll be posting more about TrainingBeta in the future, as I'm proud to be a part of Neely and Seth's vision, and I think it will be a great resource to all of us. It's a fun time to be involved in the climbing training field, and these two make it that much more exciting!