In our first episode of 2017, we talk with climber Craig DeMartino, who also happens to be an amputee. You'd never know it by talking to him or climbing with him, unless he pulls up his pant leg. Despite the odds, he's become a better rock climber after deciding to amputate his leg. That's correct; he DECIDED to amputate. A tough decision that he's very nonchalant about.
You can learn more about Craig's accident by listening to Episode 11 of The Enormocast.
You can find out more about Craig at: www.craigdemartino.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.
Peter Bonamici is a midwest bouldering legend. He'll disagree with that, but it's my podcast, so I can make that statement if I want to. Not to mention, it's true.
You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can't think of a moment when you shouldn't use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing.
In this much requested episode, I sit down with Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch to discuss assessments. Steve had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those. We talk a little about Steve's own assessments, and an important thing that he overlooked in his own training.
Many of us coaches are loosely collecting data for these assessments, but how important is it all, really? And are the standards anywhere near where they need to be? Stay tuned after the conversation for what comes dangerously close to a rant concerning the recent trend of measurements.
When Beth Rodden redpointed To Bolt or Not To Be in 1998 she became the youngest woman to climb 5.14a. Fast forward 20 years and Beth's website lists her as "Mother - Pro Climber - Writer". Mother first. Climbing is growing up.
Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author, and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, CO for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded. Seriously.
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth.
Our top 10 most downloaded podcast episodes of 2017 include some of our personal favorites, and a few that surprised us!
If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber". You'd be wrong. He's a climber who happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who happens to have sight.
I had the opportunity to session with Justin at Tension Climbing, and it was fascinating to get to observe and be a part of his process, and talking through it with him was just as interesting. The tools that Justin uses to climb into the V-double digits are the same tools that we use, and the same ones that many of fail to cultivate. We've got a lot to learn.
Russ Clune has climbed in more places than you. That is, unless you're Brittany Griffith (maybe).
Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's intimidating until you talk to her, and then she's the sweetest person you've ever met.
Routesetting is hard. You know that if you've tried to set your own problems. It's also hard on the body, so it's difficult to keep a high level of fitness while setting full time.
At a time when we're seeing a whole generation of young crushers becoming adults, the role of the parent has become more and more important. Constance Lightner is, in my mind, a perfect representative for climbing parents.
In this episode I sit down for an important conversation with wordsmith Kelsey K. Sather. We discuss her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body", a series of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana.
Last summer I started a list titled "Non Climbing (Realistic) Dream Guests". I only got as far as one name: Dan John.
Growth Mindset has recently become a hot topic in the world of sports, and for good reason. Mindset, which can be greatly affected by the feedback you give or receive, is key to learning and performance. Trevor Ragan is one of the most well versed in the science of learning and how mindset affects it, and he's out there working with teams, coaches, teachers, and businesses to actually apply the science.
So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one move that we have trouble with. Imagine that there are dozens of those moves over more than 3,000 feet of climbing, and it takes you years to unlock them. Would you stick with it? Would you believe? And what kind of partnership is required to make that happen?
The final episode with the Gnarly folks is one I had to talk them into. They wanted to educate, and I wanted to educate you all about what they have available. So we did both.
Some more nerdy talk for all of you training nerds out there. This time we go deep into the world of Branched Chain Amino Acids (BCAAs) with Dr. Shannon O'Grady, Ph.D., Director of Product at Gnarly Nutrition.
Fresh off of his audacious free solo of Freerider, Alex Honnold sat down with Arno Ilgner and Jeff Lodas from The Warriors Way to discuss his mental preparation.
One of the guests most requested by our listeners, Steve Maisch is a Salt Lake City climber/coach/economics professor who, much like myself, uses himself as a guinea pig to test new approaches to training.
I'm not often intimidated by people, but Hazel Findlay's reputation is much larger than her 5'2" frame, so I was a bit anxious about this conversation. Mental training can be a pretty nebulous topic to begin with, so if I was going to be stumbling over my words, it could end up being a rough conversation.
If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has or has had an eating disorder. While it's not a secret, it's certainly a topic that is generally shamed and then ignored. As a coach, friend, and partner, I wanted to know more about it, how to recognize it, and what to do when confronted with it.
Here in Lander there is a very strong contingent of powerful women. I'm lucky to have become friends with many of them, and I'm extremely fortunate to be able to count Emily Tilden among those friends.
Shelma Jun is an unapologetic force to be reckoned with, and she's put more thought than most of us into this feminist movement that is rocking the climbing world. To be honest, while I've put a ton of thought into it myself, much of it was in the form of denial.
In today's episode I sit down with Kerry Scott, an unassuming, but very badass young lady from North Carolina. Besides coaching a youth team at Triangle Rock Club, Kerry is a crusher. And she's not ashamed to "spray" a little. You all know that I'm definitely not afraid to spray, and I appreciate it when others buck the norm.
n this episode Nate and I sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga climber and physical therapist. We discuss the climber injuries that Allison most often sees in her clinic... shoulders and hip region injuries.
Fingers are pretty important to us. At some point, all of us will have a tweak, twinge, or injury, and we'll need to know how to deal with that. In this episode I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erickson, and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.
Lantien Chu is a smiling fountain of wisdom. She's also coach of a high school swim team who has won 21 consecutive state titles. Most important, she's an exceptional human.