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Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols
Podcasts, Board Meeting, Strength Kris Hampton 6/6/24 Podcasts, Board Meeting, Strength Kris Hampton 6/6/24

Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols

Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

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Why Hangboarding Isn't Making Your Hands Stronger
Articles, Strength Nathan Drolet 12/29/22 Articles, Strength Nathan Drolet 12/29/22

Why Hangboarding Isn't Making Your Hands Stronger

If everything you do is a finger workout, then when do your hands get a chance to recover?

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How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us
Data and Assessments, Articles, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/25/22 Data and Assessments, Articles, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/25/22

How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us

Climber performance metrics only tell a small part of a much more complex human story.

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Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22

Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

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Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 2/9/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 2/9/22

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?

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Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 1/19/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 1/19/22

Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?

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Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 12/15/21 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 12/15/21

Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?

Are thicker fingers actually better for grabbing tiny grips?

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Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 12/8/21 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 12/8/21

Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?

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A Lot of Words About Fingers
Articles, Strength, Best Of Nathan Drolet 4/14/21 Articles, Strength, Best Of Nathan Drolet 4/14/21

A Lot of Words About Fingers

Nate provides more depth to the reasoning behind many common finger training methods.

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The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder
Data and Assessments, Strength, Best Of, Articles Power Company Climbing 12/1/20 Data and Assessments, Strength, Best Of, Articles Power Company Climbing 12/1/20

The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder

We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.

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Should You Start Hangboarding? | A Flow Chart
Strength, Best Of, Articles Kris Hampton 11/30/20 Strength, Best Of, Articles Kris Hampton 11/30/20

Should You Start Hangboarding? | A Flow Chart

The definitive guide.

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Simple Training During Covid-19 | Home Self Assessment for Climbers
Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 3/16/20 Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 3/16/20

Simple Training During Covid-19 | Home Self Assessment for Climbers

The best place to start when training is knowing what you need to train.

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Simple Training for Climbing During Covid-19
Home Gym, Articles, Physical Training, Video Kris Hampton 3/13/20 Home Gym, Articles, Physical Training, Video Kris Hampton 3/13/20

Simple Training for Climbing During Covid-19

Training doesn’t have to stop just because your gym is closed.

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Ep. 143 + 144: Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Overrated (and also Important)
Podcasts, Strength, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 9/16/19 Podcasts, Strength, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 9/16/19

Ep. 143 + 144: Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Overrated (and also Important)

Hangboarding is OVERRATED. But also important. These are the top 5 reasons why.

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Sleight of Hand: Interchangeable Hangboarding (Video)
Products, Video, Home Gym Kris Hampton 4/20/19 Products, Video, Home Gym Kris Hampton 4/20/19

Sleight of Hand: Interchangeable Hangboarding (Video)

In a world where home training setups for climbing are increasingly important, saving space is key.

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Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez
Podcasts, Strength, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/10/19 Podcasts, Strength, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/10/19

Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez

Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength.

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Poor Sods: How to Train Endurance in a Crowded Climbing Gym
Articles, Extensive Endurance, Physical Training, Video Blake Cash 5/30/18 Articles, Extensive Endurance, Physical Training, Video Blake Cash 5/30/18

Poor Sods: How to Train Endurance in a Crowded Climbing Gym

Sod’s Law states: “Anything that can go wrong, will always go wrong, with the worst possible outcome.” Turns out, Sod generally spends his time at the climbing gym.

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Episode 65: Board Meetings | Five Minute Fingers
Podcasts, Strength, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 11/16/17 Podcasts, Strength, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 11/16/17

Episode 65: Board Meetings | Five Minute Fingers

The interwebs are going crazy over Andrew Bisharat’s new miracle hangboard program “Five Minute Fingers” and folks have asked for our opinion.

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Episode 58: Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch
Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 9/21/17 Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 9/21/17

Episode 58: Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch

Steve Maisch discusses different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.

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Episode 49: A Better Strip of Wood with Tension Climbing
Podcasts, Products, Home Gym Kris Hampton 7/5/17 Podcasts, Products, Home Gym Kris Hampton 7/5/17

Episode 49: A Better Strip of Wood with Tension Climbing

Tension Climbing makes wooden climbing holds. Why wood? That's exactly what I wanted to know.

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