Expert | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool

 
 

Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that might get them there.

Check out Tension Climbing and use code STONE at checkout for 10% off of select training tools!

EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

If you’re a coach or a climber who wants to learn how to give better feedback, check out our Coaching for Mastery course, part of the Power Company Climbing Academy.

Go down the rabbit hole on our Movement Practice Resource Page.

Kerry Scott | Ambition, Confidence, and Climbing All The Things

Are Your Skills Current? Available on Spotify or Apple

Grades Aren’t the Only Way to Measure Progress, Available on Spotify or Apple

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CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro and Topic Description

(2:48) Climb All The Things

(6:23) Figuring Out How to Change Me

(8:06) Boards Make It Easier to Skip the Discomfort

(9:12) ANNOTATION: Constraints, Compensation, and Choices

(12:16) Climbing as Training

(13:16) Climb What?

(14:00) Not Stealing the Struggle

(15:45) Unlearning Skills

(16:50) ANNOTATION: Coach Over-Instruction and Skills Currency

(18:19) Improvement Is Hard to Measure

(22:50) Grades Only Say What We’ve Climbed, Not How Good We Are

(23:30) Will’s 3 Grade System

(24:05) ANNOTATION: Vegetable Climbs List and Diamond vs. Pyramid

(26:10) Skills Aren’t Separate from Strength and Power

(27:33) Skill Is the Intersection of What, How, and Doing

(28:11) How the Tension Board 1 Is a Movement and Strength Tool

(30:44) Just Climb, But With Intention

(31:33) ANNOTATION: Where Strength and Movement Overlap and the Ultimate Learning Tool

(34:31) Wrap Up

(35:35) Credits and Outro

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Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
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CONFLICTED | Boards as Climbing Movement Assessment Tools

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Plugging In To Climb Better