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System Boarding, Part II:  What
Articles, Home Gym Kris Hampton 4/22/14 Articles, Home Gym Kris Hampton 4/22/14

System Boarding, Part II: What

How tall, how wide, what angle, and perhaps most difficult, which holds and in which configuration? 

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System Boarding, Part I:  Why and How
Articles, Power Kris Hampton 3/29/14 Articles, Power Kris Hampton 3/29/14

System Boarding, Part I: Why and How

I test my theory that a better way to system board for power would be to treat it more like bouldering, but on mirror-image symmetrical walls.

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Of Shoulders, Elbows, and More To Come...
Articles, Injury and Prevention, Physical Training Kris Hampton 2/23/14 Articles, Injury and Prevention, Physical Training Kris Hampton 2/23/14

Of Shoulders, Elbows, and More To Come...

I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.

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High/Low Scheduling
Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 2/16/14 Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 2/16/14

High/Low Scheduling

I've gotten several questions about my schedule during my High/Low training so let's talk a little about how I created it.

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The Cross-Training Dilemma
Articles, Rants Kris Hampton 1/25/14 Articles, Rants Kris Hampton 1/25/14

The Cross-Training Dilemma

If you believe that cross-training will help you become a better climber, keep reading.

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High/Low:  Did it Work?
Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 1/9/14 Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 1/9/14

High/Low: Did it Work?

The question you all want to know:  Being as I trained no power endurance, how did it affect my power endurance for the season?

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The High/Low Approach, Part IV:  Falling Into The Middle
Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 11/3/13 Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 11/3/13

The High/Low Approach, Part IV: Falling Into The Middle

The High/Low Approach to training for climbing is much more challenging than first meets the eye.

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The High/Low Approach, Part III:  Are You In or Are You Out?
Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 10/9/13 Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 10/9/13

The High/Low Approach, Part III: Are You In or Are You Out?

I figured that it might be prudent to let people know whether or not the High/Low style of training is for you.

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The High/Low Approach, Part II:  AE Without Training the A
Articles, Physical Training, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 9/29/13 Articles, Physical Training, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 9/29/13

The High/Low Approach, Part II: AE Without Training the A

When I read that Charlie Francis trained his sprinters by avoiding AE training, I was a little taken aback, and extremely skeptical.

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The High/Low Approach
Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 9/2/13 Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 9/2/13

The High/Low Approach

I've scrapped the old model of periodization training in favor of something known as High/Low Training.

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ATTACKtics:  Projecting, Part III:  Working
Articles, Tactics Kris Hampton 4/27/13 Articles, Tactics Kris Hampton 4/27/13

ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part III: Working

You've made the tough decision to commit.  Now, to help you break this thing down to an inevitable send.

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ATTACKtics:  Projecting, Part II: The Approach
Articles, Tactics Kris Hampton 4/18/13 Articles, Tactics Kris Hampton 4/18/13

ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part II: The Approach

If you exercise a little patience, along with a few tricks and the right tactics, projecting something hard can be a rewarding process.

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ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part I: Picking The Project
Articles, Tactics Kris Hampton 3/20/13 Articles, Tactics Kris Hampton 3/20/13

ATTACKtics: Projecting, Part I: Picking The Project

For those that have never undertaken a project, it can be intimidating just to decide on the right route.

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Why Climbing Is Bad For Your Health
Articles, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 3/3/13 Articles, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 3/3/13

Why Climbing Is Bad For Your Health

One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.

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Keeping Perspective for the Weekend Warrior.
Articles, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 2/20/13 Articles, Podcasts, Mental Training Kris Hampton 2/20/13

Keeping Perspective for the Weekend Warrior.

It's easy to get discouraged by how quickly the pros seem to put down the hardest projects.

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Reader Questions:  The Clock is Ticking.
Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 2/15/13 Articles, Physical Training Kris Hampton 2/15/13

Reader Questions: The Clock is Ticking.

Arthur writes:  I'm a month away from a climbing trip… What is the optimal program for overall climbing fitness?

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But Sharma Doesn't Train... Or Does He?
Articles, Rants, Tactics Kris Hampton 2/7/13 Articles, Rants, Tactics Kris Hampton 2/7/13

But Sharma Doesn't Train... Or Does He?

But Sharma doesn't train... Or does he?

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Campusing = Healthy Elbows?
Articles, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 2/4/13 Articles, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 2/4/13

Campusing = Healthy Elbows?

Campusing is precisely how my first round of bad elbow problems began.

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Yesterday I Went Shopping.  Talk Is Still Cheap.
Articles, Podcasts, Rants Kris Hampton 2/2/13 Articles, Podcasts, Rants Kris Hampton 2/2/13

Yesterday I Went Shopping. Talk Is Still Cheap.

I get it.  Talking is easier than doing. What it isn't, however, is nearly as satisfying.

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Pushing Through The Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Shoulders
Articles, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 1/31/13 Articles, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 1/31/13

Pushing Through The Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Shoulders

Shoulders are a tricky joint.  A big muscular shoulder means absolutely nothing when it comes to injuries.

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