CLIMB 5.12
For sport climbers in the 11b - 12a range who want to climb solid 5.12, and have both routes and boulders to train on. Click for more info.
New and improved for use in our mobile app on iPhone and Android, CLIMB 5.12 is a 12 week training plan written specifically for the sport climber who is climbing in the 11a-12a range, and wants to either break into the 5.12 grade, or solidify themselves at mid 5.12. While we’ll be exploring the movement skills needed to climb harder, this plan is heavy on endurance, tactics, and the mental tenacity it will take to climb harder routes, so will require a time commitment from you and a partner or belayer.
You will need access to sport climbing (and a patient belayer), bouldering, and a fingerboard. Rings or a suspension training system can also be helpful.
During this training plan you'll go through 3 distinct phases separated by Deload Weeks.
3 weeks of Strength and Stamina work to build a solid base on which to stack more specific qualities that you'll need for hard sport routes.
1 Deload Week, which is a low volume week designed to allow for some recovery and adaptation.
3 weeks of Power and Endurance, two qualities that will be hugely important for your goals.
1 Deload Week.
3 weeks of Power Endurance, the ability to do lots of hard moves in a row.
1 Final Deload Week.
None of these phases will be working entirely on one energy system. Instead, the name of the phase is the main focus, while all other important energy systems for your goals will get attention as well.
While our plans generally suggest 3-4 days per week, 2-3 hours per session (which can also include outdoor days - we’ll give suggestions for that time as well), we understand that not everyone has that amount of time to put toward their climbing. For this reason, the plans are flexible and suggest what to prioritize in the event that your schedule is tight. If your schedule is particularly challenging, choosing the coaching option can help tremendously with making the program work for you.