Terrible Climbing Advice That's Actually Great

PodcastsRantsBoard Meeting
Written By Kris Hampton
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In this Board Meeting, Nate and I sit down to discuss the many pieces of advice that, when actually looked at, make no real sense, but simultaneously make all of the sense in the world. It's easy to ignore catch phrases and cliches, but if this episode helps you stop and think the next time you hear one - and as a result you actually change your behavior accordingly - WIN.

MORE BOARD MEETINGS
Board Meetings | A Better Way to Look at Climbing Movement
Board Meetings | A Better Way to Look at Climbing Movement

Kris presents his idea of the Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement to Nate and asks for his thoughts.

CONFLICTED | Boards as Climbing Movement Assessment Tools
CONFLICTED | Boards as Climbing Movement Assessment Tools

If we want to assess our climbing movement skills over time, are the standardized boards the best option? We're conflicted…

Board Meetings | How Nate Assesses Climbing Movement Skills and How You Can Self-Assess
Board Meetings | How Nate Assesses Climbing Movement Skills and How You Can Self-Assess

How do we decide where to focus our efforts when it comes to becoming a BETTER climber – rather than just a stronger one?

Board Meetings | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
Board Meetings | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?

If the more you climb, the better you get, then why do we all know that one guy that’s been climbing forever and still stuck at 5.10?

REWIND | Board Meetings: The Art of Learning Climbing
REWIND | Board Meetings: The Art of Learning Climbing

One of our favorites: Kris and Nate discuss ideas about our mental models for learning, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.

Board Meetings | Indoor Climbing Lessons That You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)
Board Meetings | Indoor Climbing Lessons That You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)

There are lessons from the climbing in a gym that should absolutely be applied outdoors in order to become a better climber faster.

Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos

With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case.

CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders
CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders

Does kneebarring hard boulders make you stronger? We're conflicted.

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Replicas
Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Replicas

Watching Will Bosi and Aiden Roberts work on the Burden of Dreams replica is fun, but is it valuable for the rest of us?

Board Meetings | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay
Board Meetings | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay

Kris chats with our very own coach Nadya Suntay to remind us why it’s better to keep it simple when it comes to our training.

Board Meetings | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West
Board Meetings | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West

Our very own coach Jess West provides valuable insight as to how setters can smartly and safely train for their goals.

Board Meetings | Surviving the Modern Mega Climbing Gym
Board Meetings | Surviving the Modern Mega Climbing Gym

Kris and Nate sit down to discuss some of the perks and pitfalls of climbing in today’s modern mega gyms.

Baby's First V10 | Considerations for Breaking into a New Grade
Baby's First V10 | Considerations for Breaking into a New Grade

Or any grade, for that matter. Boulder or sport.

Board Meetings | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni
Board Meetings | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni

Kris and fellow Power Company coach, Taylor Fragomeni, discuss how you can make the transition from indoor to outdoor climbing easier on yourself.

Board Meetings | Top Ways Climbers are Holding Themselves Back with The Average Climber Podcast
Board Meetings | Top Ways Climbers are Holding Themselves Back with The Average Climber Podcast

Kris and Nate are joined by Lauren and Caitlin of The Average Climber Podcast, to discuss some of the biggest ways climbers get in their own way.

Board Meetings | Systematic Tactics vs. Battle Mode
Board Meetings | Systematic Tactics vs. Battle Mode

Both are important. Which is your default? Do you value the other?

Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap
Board Meetings | The Gym to Crag Performance Gap

We talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap.

Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked

Objective metrics might not be the best way.

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing
Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing

Not all games are created equal.

Board Meetings | The Worst Sport Climbing Tactic
Board Meetings | The Worst Sport Climbing Tactic

Are you making these common sport climbing mistakes?

Board Meetings | The Worst Bouldering Tactic
Board Meetings | The Worst Bouldering Tactic

Are you making these common bouldering mistakes?

The Downgrading of "Bibliographie" from 15d to 15c
The Downgrading of "Bibliographie" from 15d to 15c

5.15d to 5.15c. Does it even matter?

Terrible Climbing Advice That's Actually Great
Terrible Climbing Advice That's Actually Great

It's easy to ignore catch phrases and cliches, but maybe you should stop and think the next time you hear one.

Board Meetings | Top 5 Ways to Shorten Climbing Sessions Without Sacrificing Quality
Board Meetings | Top 5 Ways to Shorten Climbing Sessions Without Sacrificing Quality

A 5 hour session might be too long…

Ep. 202: Board Meetings | Extra Effort vs. Overtraining
Ep. 202: Board Meetings | Extra Effort vs. Overtraining

It’s a thin line, and one that is tricky to navigate.

Board Meetings | Is It a Weakness or Is It Just Hard?
Board Meetings | Is It a Weakness or Is It Just Hard?

Hard climbing is… well, hard.

Board Meetings | Climbing Terms We Don't Like
Board Meetings | Climbing Terms We Don't Like

Words are powerful. Not only to inspire, but also to harm.

Ep. 190: Board Meetings | How to Climb and Train Effectively with Different Level Climbers
Ep. 190: Board Meetings | How to Climb and Train Effectively with Different Level Climbers

Some say it doesn’t work. We disagree.

Board Meetings | Stop Blaming the Routesetters
Board Meetings | Stop Blaming the Routesetters

Maybe it’s you…

Ep. 182 -184: Board Meetings | Bouldering Tactics
Ep. 182 -184: Board Meetings | Bouldering Tactics

Effective ways to approach bouldering.

Featured
Lessons from the Library
Lessons from the Library

There are an infinite number of lessons to learn within climbing.

Garlic Salt and Good Advice
Garlic Salt and Good Advice

There is a common theme between a grilled cheese sandwich and good training advice.

What One-Star Book Reviews Teach Us About Training
What One-Star Book Reviews Teach Us About Training

It’s far more comfortable for us to blame ignorance for our lack of progress than it is to blame our own efforts.

Advice Has an Angle
Advice Has an Angle

Whenever there is a training article online or some tidbit of knowledge on social media, it’s important that you consider the context.

Why Aren't You Worse at Climbing?
Why Aren't You Worse at Climbing?

If you want better answers, start by asking better questions.

Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
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