Selective Learning: The Short-Sighted Approach
Through many conversations about training with friends and other climbers, I've discovered one common thread - you can almost always find a reason to continue training the short-sighted way that you have been.
What I mean, is that if you get attached to your method of training, the method that has worked for years and gotten you to where you are (and where you've been for five seasons), then you're probably missing out on some great advice. That is, of course, unless your method is to constantly look for new methods and target new weak areas in your climbing. If that's you, you can just skip this piece. If you're the one who has done exactly the same workout for years, and have been stuck at the same grades for years, then you may want to read on.
Just be advised that you might not read exactly what you hope…