Podcast. Episode Zero?
I suppose it's high time we get this thing started.
Where it's going to go, how long it will last, and how often you'll see it, I have ZERO idea. We'll just have to be surprised together.
For now, a quick intro to what I do know - which frankly, isn't much.
And I have NO IDEA why the play buttons aren't showing yet... I'm working on it. If you click the big square (which obviously is NOT the universal symbol for Play), it will actually play.
We'll be on iTunes and maybe Stitcher soon, which I'll let you know about.
Ben Mayforth is a highly-disciplined Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist who is known for dialing in his training regimen.
Nate talks movement analysis and technique in a consultation with host Ryan Devlin on The Struggle Climbing Show.
Kris presents his idea of the Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement to Nate and asks for his thoughts.
The former German National Team coach talks motor learning, coaching movement, and what makes Janja and Tomoa special.
One of the most common places things start to fall apart is at the very beginning of the move.
If we want to assess our climbing movement skills over time, are the standardized boards the best option? We're conflicted…
Co-founder of Tension Climbing, Will Anglin, talks movement skills, how climbers can continue improving, and the tools that can help.
Lauren Abernathy, coach and owner of Good Spray Climbing, works hard to help her clients – and herself – become better climbers.
We know spending time on a finishing link is smart tactics for hard climbs. So why not apply the same concept to individual moves?
How do we decide where to focus our efforts when it comes to becoming a BETTER climber – rather than just a stronger one?
Taylor Reed talks movement coaching and the role research plays in his evidence-informed coaching methods.
If the more you climb, the better you get, then why do we all know that one guy that’s been climbing forever and still stuck at 5.10?
Learning when and how to compensate for a weakness is a skill. And skills need to be practiced.
One of our favorites: Kris and Nate discuss ideas about our mental models for learning, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
Rob Gray discusses two theories of skill acquisition and how climbing coaches can use them to help climbers better learn to move.
Skill Acquisition Specialist Rob Gray discusses the limitations of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners.
Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED.
There are lessons from the climbing in a gym that should absolutely be applied outdoors in order to become a better climber faster.
There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors.
With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case.
Two legendary routes. One of them likely the first 9a in the world. But which was it? Hubble or Action Directe?
Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel Findlay in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send.
The Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition could use our help.
You nailed the training and showed up stronger. Still, things went wrong.
They said women would never climb 5.14. But Lynn Hill and Katie Brown didn’t listen. Episodes 1 & 2 of Written In Stone out now!
Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.
Introducing the newest podcast from Plug Tone Audio, Written In Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents.
Forty years ago, Miguel Ventura moved from Connecticut to Slade, Kentucky and started what was then known as The Rainbow Door, and has become an icon to climbers all over the world.
Looking to climb on sandstone cliffs full of high-angled crimps? Look no further than the Blue Mountains, Australia’s sport climbing mecca.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in sport climbing.