FOCUS | Q & A Part 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks
In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs even deeper into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. He’ll talk about how you can track your own improvement, if and how your movement focus should change when training for sport climbing vs. bouldering, how to start training movement after coming off a break from climbing, and more. He’ll give some suggestions on how to improve your pacing and rhythm, and attempt to help us understand some of climbing’s more elusive skills: toe and heel hooking.
This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already!
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EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10)
The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering
CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools
The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill
Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill
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CHAPTERS
(00:00) Intro
(03:06) Finding the Best Beta
(09:12) Strength vs. Movement
(09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks
(11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks
(18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks
(22:07) How to Know You’re Improving
(27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement
(28:58) How to Know What to Work On
(31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm
(36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves
(41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip
(43:46) False Start Hover Drill
(48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing
(51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards
(55:11) Outro
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Kris Hampton
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
There are 3 types of climbers… but one of them is ALWAYS better.