Expert | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

PodcastsMovement Practice
Written By Kris Hampton
 
 

Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.


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CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro

(2:00) Guest Introduction

(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories

(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides

(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods

(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing

(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards

(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach

(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching

(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example

(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing

(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling

(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders

(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?

(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill

(40:45) Wrap Up

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Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
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Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing
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Expert | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)