Builder | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills
Lauren Abernathy, coach and owner of Good Spray Climbing, works hard to help her clients – and herself – become better climbers.
Board Meetings | How Nate Assesses Climbing Movement Skills and How You Can Self-Assess
How do we decide where to focus our efforts when it comes to becoming a BETTER climber – rather than just a stronger one?
Expert | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
Taylor Reed talks movement coaching and the role research plays in his evidence-informed coaching methods.
Board Meetings | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
If the more you climb, the better you get, then why do we all know that one guy that’s been climbing forever and still stuck at 5.10?
What Type of Climbing Movement Do You Value?
Maybe “careless and sloppy” isn’t always so bad.
REWIND | Board Meetings: The Art of Learning Climbing
One of our favorites: Kris and Nate discuss ideas about our mental models for learning, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing
How do you solve a problem? By looking for a solution.
Expert | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
Rob Gray discusses two theories of skill acquisition and how climbing coaches can use them to help climbers better learn to move.
Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
“Climbing is a skill sport,” isn’t enough.
FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED.
Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement Through Shaping and Setting
Kris sits down with shaper and setter Roy Quanstrom, of Tension Climbing to talk about his latest holds and more.
Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
What does science say about warming up before performance?
Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?
Why Strength Training Isn’t Making You Climb Harder
Climbers will dedicate years to getting “strong enough” when what they really need is to learn how to apply the strength they already have.
Breaking Beta | Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?
Is flexibility a good determinant for climbing performance?
Breaking Beta | Does Stretching Result in Power Loss?
Does static stretching really reduce strength and power?
Success vs. Mastery | Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber
Skaters do one important thing much better than climbers: they chase mastery instead of success.
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
A way to think about improvement based on ideas from Josh Waitzkin, author of The Art of Learning.
Ep. 148: Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E. 2
Position Over Everything. Part 2 of a cult classic.
Reflections on Yoga and Climbing
Yoga and climbing seem to go together. But does yoga help your climbing?