This winter I've written about 20 training programs for climbers of a wide range of skill levels. One comment I often get in my initial interviews is that they want to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.
While I echo this optimistic sentiment, I know that it just isn't always possible, particularly when you're reaching into the upper limits of your abilities.
I also, somewhat suprisingly, hear strong climbers lament that they thought they were in such good shape, yet they got their butts kicked at hot yoga, or they can't believe how sore they are from sand volleyball. Of course you are! You're in good climbing shape... not good yoga shape. The two things are completely different, and you'd be hard pressed to convince me of any crossover fitness.
Now, I don't often do this, but I thought this blog post was worth reposting...it's a blog I follow, well written and often insightful commentary on how the body moves and functions. It isn't so much about the physiology as it is the "essence" of movement. At any rate, this post, "Extreme Performance or Optimum Health? Pick One!", hit the nail on the head.
Read it and choose your path, but choose wisely.
Otherwise, you might just suck at sand volleyball forever.