This winter I've written about 20 training programs for climbers of a wide range of skill levels. One comment I often get in my initial interviews is that they want to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.
While I echo this optimistic sentiment, I know that it just isn't always possible, particularly when you're reaching into the upper limits of your abilities.
I also, somewhat surprisingly, hear strong climbers lament that they thought they were in such good shape, yet they got their butts kicked at hot yoga, or they can't believe how sore they are from sand volleyball. Of course you are! You're in good climbing shape - not good yoga shape. The two things are completely different, and you'd be hard pressed to convince me of any crossover fitness.
Now, I don't often do this, but I thought this blog post was worth reposting. It's a blog I follow, well-written and often insightful commentary on how the body moves and functions. It isn't so much about the physiology as it is the "essence" of movement. At any rate, this post, "Extreme Performance or Optimum Health? Pick One!", hit the nail on the head.
Read it and choose your path, but choose wisely.
Otherwise, you might just suck at sand volleyball forever.
You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has struggled with an eating disorder. As a coach, friend, and partner, I wanted to know more about the subject, how to recognize it, and what to do when confronted with it.
In this episode, we sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga-based climber and physical therapist. We talk about how to self-diagnose, when you should see a doctor, what to do about an injury, and most importantly, how to prevent them.
Fingers are pretty important to us. In this episode, I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erikson and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.
If there is a polar opposite of "nutritionist," I'm it. I blank out immediately when talking the details of nutrition. Not so with our guest today, Neely Quinn.
Has it really been 60 days since I last posted an update on my shoulder? Not that there was much to report on, save the same old routine of PT and mobility. Until recently, that is, when the "little" exercises that I was capable of got much bigger.
It's interesting how fast perspective can shift when one's situation is altered. Each time I get the clearance to do a new exercise it's the highlight of my day. Mobility or strengthening - doesn't matter - it's all the same level of exciting to me right now.
If you've ever been to, or even paid attention to, the "24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell" event, then you've no doubt heard of husband and wife team "Leather and Lace," Dick Dower and Natalie Neal Dower.
Therapy. Atrophy. Ever wonder why those two words are one letter away from being anagrams? It's because they go hand in hand. When you aren't using muscles, your body has zero interest in maintaining them. They disappear FAST.
So surgery went well, they tell me. I have no idea since I don't know what's going on in there. I'll trust their judgement.
I'll keep this short and sweet, since you'll be hearing alot from me in coming months. I leave my house in about 30 minutes to head to the hospital for rotator cuff surgery, specifically to repair a full thickness labrum tear as well as a full thickness supraspinatus tear.
I wanted to post an addition to my previous injury prevention and rehab posts. I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.
One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free. While I echo this optimistic sentiment, I know that it just isn't always possible, particularly when you're reaching into the upper limits of your abilities.
Shoulders are a tricky joint. A big muscular shoulder means absolutely nothing when it comes to injuries. The most common shoulder injury in climbers is a form of tendonitis known as "shoulder impingement syndrome (SIS)".
All of us are going to get hurt at some point. A finger, a shoulder, an elbow, a knee; something. Climbing is hard on our bodies, particularly if you make a habit of giving maximum effort. I've got some experience in this department.