Episode 66: Now What? with Dan John
Last summer I started a list titled "Non-Climbing (realistic) Dream Guests". I only got as far as one name: Dan John. I was planning to be in Salt Lake for the OR Trade Show, so I emailed Dan on the off chance that he'd do an in-person conversation. To my surprise he emailed back almost immediately, scheduled a call for the next day, and invited me to his house to workout and record the conversation.
If you've taken even a cursory look into the field of Strength and Conditioning, you've seen the name Dan John repeatedly. He's often quoted by other coaches, including all of us here at Power Company Climbing, and his pragmatic approach to training is one that has resonated with me since I read his book, "Easy Strength," (co-written with kettlebell guru Pavel Tsatsouline.
I went to his house to discuss his newest book, "Now What?", which asks and answers the important questions that coaches and athletes often forget to ask. After you've done your assessments, you've trained and met the standards, you've won or lost, or your season is over... Now What? This book follows two other excellent books from Dan called "Intervention" and "Can You Go?", both of which should be required reading for coaches.
The wisdom that Dan shares concerning coaching and dealing with athletes is impossible to overvalue. While he's worked with Olympic and Professional athletes, he still makes time for an open workout in his simple garage gym at 9:30 every morning, where he both dispenses knowledge and learns from whoever shows up that day. After a workout in Dan's gym, this style of what Dan calls "intentional community" is exactly how I plan to build my own home gym.
As always, if you purchase any of the books shown here through these links, the podcast gets a small kickback from Amazon without affecting your prices. We appreciate the support!
Like what you hear? Subscribe to The Power Company Podcast on ITunes, Google Play, or Stitcher Radio, and leave a rating and review!
Lauren Abernathy, coach and owner of Good Spray Climbing, works hard to help her clients – and herself – become better climbers.
Taylor Reed talks movement coaching and the role research plays in his evidence-informed coaching methods.
Seasoned big wall climber Josie McKee returns to discuss how her recent trip to Yosemite turned out, and some of the hurdles that can hold us back from a fulfilling relationship with climbing.
Experienced big wall climber Josie McKee recently found herself with limestone sport climbing as her primary means to train for a Yosemite trip.
Looking for a summer sport climbing destination? Look no further than Wild Iris, with its high elevation, low humidity, and perfectly-pocketed limestone walls.
Eric Hörst chats about how some big life shifts – retirement, the success of his brand PhysiVantage, and becoming an empty nester – have impacted his climbing and training.
Looking for a winter bouldering destination with endless rock, hosting classic problems of every grade? Look no further than Chattanooga.
Our good friend Lauren Abernathy talks about the challenges of being a female coach in a male-dominated industry.
Taylor Fragomeni shares lessons she’s learned from routesetting and coaching as a female.
Yves Gravelle is a legendary Canadian strongman, and pound for pound may have the strongest grip in the world.
Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength.
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.
If you're a coach, this is a must listen to episode. In fact, if you're a climber who wants to learn to climb better, it's a must listen.
Today's episode is a question and answer session from the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, recorded live in Columbia, MD.
We're flipping the script for our 100th episode. Nate takes over the host mic, and I do my best to let him lead the conversation.
Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel set the bar high for being a successful coach/climber team. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage.
Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those.
After you've done your assessments, you've trained and met the standards, you've won or lost, or your season is over... Now What?
Trevor Ragan helps us understand the science of learning and how mindset affects it, plus how to actually apply the science.
Steve Maisch discusses different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.
The belief that you are getting better at climbing is one of the most important ingredients in actually getting better at climbing.
Lauren Abernathy gathers lessons on climbing with courage and flow from podcast episode 57, which features mental master Hazel Findlay.
We live in an age of fast food bouldering. Gym boulders are turned over more frequently than ever before. You can try 2,500 different V7’s on a Moon Board before you have to move on to V8.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
The former German National Team coach talks motor learning, coaching movement, and what makes Janja and Tomoa special.