Well, not exactly. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I've been experiencing some elbow issues. These issues arose as a result of climbing five days on at HP40, where all the constant squeezing left my poor elbows screaming for mercy. Unfortunately, upon return from HP40 I was scheduled to begin the power phase of my training, in which I had included campusing.
Frankly, this scared me a little. Campusing is precisely how my first round of bad elbow problems began. However, that was then, and I had no idea what I was really doing on the campus board. I'm smarter now, right?
I know; I wrote the schedule, so I could easily change it. I could rehab the elbows and skip campusing and all would be well. Not a chance. I did what any self-respecting trainer would do, and I ignored my own advice to experimentally take one for the team.
Of course, I would never recommend this to a client or a friend. Probably not even to an enemy. It wasn't a good idea and I knew it, but I felt compelled to know exactly how much the elbow workouts I detailed in my previous post actually worked while still training at a high level. And so it was that I drug out my old friends dumbbell and "Therabar", placed them in a prominent position in the living room, and I headed to the gym to campus.
As of this week, I've finished with my 4 weeks of campusing, and I'm happy to report that in fact, through dilligent work on my elbows, they are healthier than when I started. They've gotten better gradually, to the point of almost no pain now. They are still stiff in the mornings, and they take a while to really warm up, but by all measures they are in good shape. Not only that, but my campusing improved markedly over the 4 weeks. Of the three main exercises that comprise the meat of my campus workout (which I'll detail soon), I experienced a big gain in all three. In the final 2 weeks, as the elbow pain was really subsiding, the strides were bigger than I had expected, which was a nice bonus.
I'm now at the start of an off week, continuing to work on the elbows, the shoulder (which also felt no ill effects from campusing), and my ridiculously tight IT band (more on that later as well... Jesus, am I falling apart?!). The start of the season is just around the corner, only a short anaerobic endurance phase away. I'm feeling strong, healthy, and can hardly wait to get back out.
Part three: My training in Decemeber and January, how I spent my time in Hueco to keep preparing myself for sport climbing, and what I’m doing from here.
Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.
With all the information out there on training, rehabbing, and performance, it’s tough to know where to start when you’re injured. Dr. Jared Vagy developed a system that makes that process much simpler, and lays out a much clearer path to healing.
Joslynn Corredor is the definition of strength and courage.
Skin is your sending currency. Stop overpaying.
You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has struggled with an eating disorder. As a coach, friend, and partner, I wanted to know more about the subject, how to recognize it, and what to do when confronted with it.
In this episode, we sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga-based climber and physical therapist. We talk about how to self-diagnose, when you should see a doctor, what to do about an injury, and most importantly, how to prevent them.
Fingers are pretty important to us. In this episode, I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erikson and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.
If there is a polar opposite of "nutritionist," I'm it. I blank out immediately when talking the details of nutrition. Not so with our guest today, Neely Quinn.
Has it really been 60 days since I last posted an update on my shoulder? Not that there was much to report on, save the same old routine of PT and mobility. Until recently, that is, when the "little" exercises that I was capable of got much bigger.
It's interesting how fast perspective can shift when one's situation is altered. Each time I get the clearance to do a new exercise it's the highlight of my day. Mobility or strengthening - doesn't matter - it's all the same level of exciting to me right now.
If you've ever been to, or even paid attention to, the "24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell" event, then you've no doubt heard of husband and wife team "Leather and Lace," Dick Dower and Natalie Neal Dower.
Therapy. Atrophy. Ever wonder why those two words are one letter away from being anagrams? It's because they go hand in hand. When you aren't using muscles, your body has zero interest in maintaining them. They disappear FAST.
So surgery went well, they tell me. I have no idea since I don't know what's going on in there. I'll trust their judgement.
I'll keep this short and sweet, since you'll be hearing alot from me in coming months. I leave my house in about 30 minutes to head to the hospital for rotator cuff surgery, specifically to repair a full thickness labrum tear as well as a full thickness supraspinatus tear.
I wanted to post an addition to my previous injury prevention and rehab posts. I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.
One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free. While I echo this optimistic sentiment, I know that it just isn't always possible, particularly when you're reaching into the upper limits of your abilities.
Shoulders are a tricky joint. A big muscular shoulder means absolutely nothing when it comes to injuries. The most common shoulder injury in climbers is a form of tendonitis known as "shoulder impingement syndrome (SIS)".
All of us are going to get hurt at some point. A finger, a shoulder, an elbow, a knee; something. Climbing is hard on our bodies, particularly if you make a habit of giving maximum effort. I've got some experience in this department.