The "First Draft" Approach to Sport Climbing

The first time you go up a new hard route can be intimidating. There are so many unknowns. That first go can be exciting, but it can also quickly feel discouraging.

“This feels harder than I thought it would.”

“I have no clue what to do for the crux.”

“It’s more run-out than it looks from the ground.”

“I can’t even do the easy part.”

“I’m not ready for this.”

I’ve seen countless well-trained and motivated climbers give up on their goal route of the season after a single try. They put so much time into planning and preparing for this, but they didn’t account for what would happen if it felt too hard.

Of course it felt hard! It’s supposed to be a challenge. That’s why you’re trying it. Also, did you really think you would be able to find the perfect sequencing, positions, rests, way to grab the holds, and pacing for a route near your limit on your very first try? It probably felt like the hardest thing you’ve ever tried that first time up.

Jeremy Rush climbing Welcome To Conditioning, (12d), New River Gorge. Photo by: Nate Drolet

Instead of putting so much pressure on your first attempt, think about going up a route the same way you would approach writing something important. Think of it as a first draft. Even the best writers in the world will tell you they have terrible first drafts. Here’s a secret, though: they’re okay with that. They understand that the purpose of a first draft isn’t to reach perfection, it’s about starting the process. The same is true for your first time up a route.

What would it look like to think of your first time up a hard route as a first draft? You’re not sure if that opening sequence is the best method? That’s fine. We’re just looking to get an idea of what this route is about. If you get stumped in a certain area, move past it. You don’t need to have everything figured out your first time through. 

As a coach, a piece of advice I constantly share with my sport climbers is that they shouldn’t pass any judgment on whether a route is too hard until they’ve been to the anchors twice. Not to the crux, to the anchors. If it’s a new area or rock type, or if you haven’t climbed outside in a while, then you should consider extending that to three trips to the anchors.

I can’t count the number of times a route felt impossible for a client after their first go, and then went on their third or fourth try. The further you push yourself near your limit, the more improbable the things you attempt will initially feel.

Stop putting so much pressure on your first draft. You’ll have more fun with the process, stick with routes for longer, and send harder because of it.