Bill Ramsey's Pain Box for Climbers: How to Try Harder
Okay, the big question… how can we all learn to give more effort?
I recently posed this question to a coaching mentorship group that I was working with. I suggested that effort is directly related to how bad we want it. But one of the coaches scoffed at this, saying that we all want it, or why else would we be there?
But do we?
To examine this very question, longtime climber and philosophy professor, Bill Ramsey developed something he calls The Pain Box.
In the video below, a short clip from our podcast episode REMIX: EFFORT, I reimagine Bill’s Pain Box for effort on the wall or at the crag, with common excuses not to give a higher effort.
You can listen to the full episode right here or wherever you get podcasts.
All roads (or rabbit holes) lead back to effort. On and off the wall, in preparation, practice, and performance – all the time.
There is one single skill that trumps all others when it comes to being able to climb 5.13… do you have it?
But then it hit me… Techniques are just the language we use to name the combination of elements as they show up in usage.
No matter what technique, its success depends on getting the basic elements right: Position, Tension, Rhythm, Commitment, and Effort.
I never thought I’d be recommending this, but some of y’all should be putting less effort into becoming technically better climbers.
Most of us have never given 100% to an attempt on a rock climb. Most of us just don’t know how.
During the 8th annual Joe’s Valley Festival, Kris sat down to talk to local legend and longtime crusher Steven Jeffery.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Maybe not. As always, it depends.