Expert | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool
Co-founder of Tension Climbing, Will Anglin, talks movement skills, how climbers can continue improving, and the tools that can help.
Builder | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills
Lauren Abernathy, coach and owner of Good Spray Climbing, works hard to help her clients – and herself – become better climbers.
Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing
We know spending time on a finishing link is smart tactics for hard climbs. So why not apply the same concept to individual moves?
Board Meetings | How Nate Assesses Climbing Movement Skills and How You Can Self-Assess
How do we decide where to focus our efforts when it comes to becoming a BETTER climber – rather than just a stronger one?
Expert | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
Taylor Reed talks movement coaching and the role research plays in his evidence-informed coaching methods.
Board Meetings | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
If the more you climb, the better you get, then why do we all know that one guy that’s been climbing forever and still stuck at 5.10?
Taped Tips | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable
Learning when and how to compensate for a weakness is a skill. And skills need to be practiced.
REWIND | Board Meetings: The Art of Learning Climbing
One of our favorites: Kris and Nate discuss ideas about our mental models for learning, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
Expert | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
Rob Gray discusses two theories of skill acquisition and how climbing coaches can use them to help climbers better learn to move.
Expert | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
Skill Acquisition Specialist Rob Gray discusses the limitations of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners.
FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED.
Board Meetings | Indoor Climbing Lessons That You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)
There are lessons from the climbing in a gym that should absolutely be applied outdoors in order to become a better climber faster.
Board Meetings | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors
There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors.
Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case.
Written In Stone | Hubble vs. Action Directe: The World’s First 14d (9a)
Two legendary routes. One of them likely the first 9a in the world. But which was it? Hubble or Action Directe?
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention and Letting the Body Climb
Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel Findlay in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send.
Jereme Ransick | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
The Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition could use our help.
Board Meetings | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
You nailed the training and showed up stronger. Still, things went wrong.
Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History
They said women would never climb 5.14. But Lynn Hill and Katie Brown didn’t listen. Episodes 1 & 2 of Written In Stone out now!
Taped Tips | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance
Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.